Chhatri Bagh, Indore: Exploring One of the Most Beautiful Heritage Sites in Indore, Madhya Pradesh

Introduction: Discovering Indore's Royal Past at Chhatri Bagh

When people think of Indore, the first things that usually come to mind are its legendary street food, bustling markets, Rajwada Palace and the legacy of Queen Ahilyabai Holkar. However, tucked away from the city's commercial bustle is a place where Indore's royal past reveals itself in a rather different way.

Chhatri Bagh is among the most fascinating heritage sites in Indore, offering a glimpse into the architectural traditions, royal customs and memorial practices of the Holkar dynasty. Unlike a palace built to demonstrate power or a temple designed for worship, Chhatri Bagh tells stories through memorial structures created to honour members of a royal family.

Located near the historic Khan River, this collection of cenotaphs features ornate domes, carved pillars, intricate stonework and architectural details that deserve considerably more attention than they usually receive.

What makes the place interesting is the contrast between its architectural richness and its relatively understated presence in Indore's tourism narrative. Visitors often spend time around Rajwada Palace, explore the food streets of Sarafa and Chhappan Dukan, and move towards more popular attractions. Chhatri Bagh offers an opportunity to slow down and discover another dimension of the city.

For travellers interested in history, architecture, photography and the cultural heritage of Madhya Pradesh, this is a place worth exploring without rushing.

It is also a reminder that Indore's identity is not defined only by its modern commercial success. Beneath the contemporary city lies a fascinating history shaped by the Holkars, the Maratha expansion into Malwa and the remarkable legacy of one of India's most admired women rulers.

Why Visit Chhatri Bagh? Understanding Its Place Among the Heritage Sites in Indore

There are several reasons why Chhatri Bagh deserves a place on an Indore heritage walk.

First, it offers a different architectural experience from the city's better-known palaces and temples. The cenotaphs combine elements of Maratha, Rajput and traditional Hindu architectural vocabulary, with distinctive domes, pillars, arches and sculptural ornamentation.

Second, the site provides an opportunity to understand the Holkar dynasty beyond the familiar stories of its most prominent rulers.

Third, it is an interesting destination for photographers. The repetitive architectural forms, symmetrical compositions, carved stone surfaces and changing natural light create opportunities for both architectural and detail photography.

Here is what makes Chhatri Bagh particularly interesting:

  • Royal history: The memorials commemorate members of the Holkar family, which played a significant role in shaping Indore and the Malwa region.

  • Traditional architecture: The structures feature decorative domes, pillared mandapas, carved columns and elaborate architectural details.

  • Historical storytelling: Different memorials represent different generations of the Holkar family.

  • Photography: The interplay of light and shadow across the stone structures makes the complex interesting for architectural photography.

  • Cultural exploration: It provides a deeper understanding of the traditions associated with royal memorials in central India.

For anyone putting together a list of historical places to visit in Indore, Chhatri Bagh offers something that is difficult to experience at a modern museum or commercial tourist attraction: a connection with the city's royal past through architecture.

Historical and Cultural Significance of Chhatri Bagh

The Holkar dynasty and the making of Indore

To understand Chhatri Bagh, it helps to understand the rise of the Holkars.

The Holkar dynasty emerged as a powerful Maratha ruling family in the eighteenth century. Its founder, Malhar Rao Holkar (1693–1766), played an important role in expanding Maratha influence into the Malwa region.

Indore gradually developed into an important centre under Holkar rule. The dynasty's influence extended beyond military and political affairs into administration, architecture, religious patronage, trade and urban development.

One of its most remarkable rulers was Maharani Ahilyabai Holkar (1725–1795). Remembered for her administrative abilities, public works and patronage of temples and pilgrimage centres, she remains an important figure in the history of Madhya Pradesh and India.

The story traditionally associated with Ahilyabai's rise is fascinating. According to popular historical accounts, Malhar Rao Holkar noticed her at a temple in her village of Chaundi and recognised qualities that eventually led him to arrange her marriage to his son, Khanderao Holkar.

Following the deaths of her husband and son, Ahilyabai eventually assumed leadership of the Holkar state. Her reign became particularly significant for its emphasis on administration, public welfare and religious infrastructure.

Chhatri Bagh belongs to this broader historical landscape.

Why were these chhatris constructed?

The word chhatri literally means an umbrella. In Indian architecture, it refers to a domed pavilion, often supported by pillars.

In the context of royal architecture, chhatris frequently served as memorial structures or cenotaphs commemorating deceased rulers and members of royal families.

These memorials were not simply monuments marking a person's death. They were architectural expressions of remembrance, lineage and royal identity.

The Holkar rulers continued this tradition across generations. Their memorials in Indore became an important part of the region's architectural heritage.

Historical architectural accounts record the development of the Chhatri Bagh memorial complex during Ahilyabai Holkar's reign, with the tradition continuing under subsequent Holkar rulers.

An interesting detail is that the complex is organised into separate enclosures rather than presenting all the memorials as one uninterrupted architectural composition.

This makes exploring Chhatri Bagh more interesting. Different structures belong to different periods, and their architectural treatment reflects changing preferences within the royal family.

The Holkar memorials and their historical associations

The Chhatri Bagh complex contains memorials associated with several members of the Holkar family, including:

  • Malhar Rao Holkar I, founder of the Holkar dynasty.

  • Male Rao Holkar.

  • Khande Rao Holkar, husband of Ahilyabai Holkar.

  • Tukoji Rao Holkar I.

  • Other members of the Holkar family from subsequent generations.

The cenotaph of Malhar Rao Holkar is particularly significant because of his association with the establishment of Holkar power in Malwa.

The architectural history of the complex also records a memorial associated with Gautama Bai Holkar, Malhar Rao's wife, constructed in 1784 under Ahilyabai's direction.

Some descriptions also identify an Ahilyabai memorial within the wider Chhatri Bagh complex. However, it is worth distinguishing between memorial structures and actual cremation or burial locations when interpreting individual monuments.

This is particularly important when exploring Holkar history because memorials associated with the dynasty are found at several locations, including Maheshwar and Alampur.

Exploring Chhatri Bagh: What Makes Its Architecture Special?

The best way to appreciate Chhatri Bagh is to spend time looking beyond the overall structure of its domes.

At first glance, the buildings may appear similar. However, closer observation reveals differences in their proportions, decorative elements, pillars, arches and roof structures.

1. The imposing domes and traditional chhatri architecture

The domes are among the most recognisable elements of Chhatri Bagh.

Several structures feature domed roofs supported by columns, creating open or semi-open pavilion-like spaces. The architectural vocabulary combines traditional Indian temple elements with the memorial pavilion tradition associated with Maratha and Rajput architecture.

Look carefully at the transition between the supporting pillars and the domes. This is where the craftsmanship becomes particularly interesting.

Some structures have more elaborate upper sections, with decorative finials and layered architectural forms.

For photographers, these domes offer excellent opportunities to experiment with symmetry, framing and geometric compositions.

2. Carved pillars and ornamental details

The pillars deserve as much attention as the domes.

Walk around the memorial structures and observe the different ways in which the columns support the roof. Some feature ornamental capitals, while others have relatively restrained surfaces.

The carved details are particularly interesting when observed from close range.

Rather than photographing every monument from the front, look for details that communicate the craftsmanship of the period.

A photograph of a carved pillar against the soft background of a dome can often tell a more interesting architectural story than a conventional wide-angle photograph.

3. Frescoes, sculptures and religious motifs

Some of the more elaborate memorials feature decorative work and religious imagery.

Historical descriptions of the Holkar cenotaphs record depictions of Hindu deities, mythological narratives and ornamental motifs. The Hari Rao Holkar Chhatri, in particular, is noted for sculptural representations associated with stories from the Ramayana, Mahabharata and Krishna traditions.

These details offer an interesting insight into the relationship between royal memorial architecture and religious symbolism.

It is worth taking time to observe the interiors wherever access is permitted. The visual language changes as you move from the open exterior to the more enclosed central spaces.

4. The separate enclosures and their architectural character

One of the lesser-known aspects of Chhatri Bagh is its layout.

The complex includes separate groups of memorials within the larger property. The southern enclosure has a distinctive double-storeyed entrance gate associated with Ahilyabai's period.

This is an interesting detail because the entrance itself becomes part of the historical experience.

Instead of treating Chhatri Bagh as a single monument, explore it as a collection of interconnected historical spaces.

The arrangement also creates interesting photographic possibilities, particularly when architectural elements frame one another.

Chhatri Bagh Through a Photographer's Perspective

Chhatri Bagh is an especially interesting destination for people who enjoy photographing heritage architecture.

Unlike a modern building with clean lines and uniform surfaces, these memorials have irregular details, changing textures and architectural elements that respond differently to natural light.

The challenge is to photograph the place in a way that captures its character rather than simply documenting its existence.

Wide-angle compositions

Begin with a few wide-angle photographs that capture the scale and arrangement of the memorials.

Look for compositions where multiple domes appear together. If the foreground is relatively uncluttered, use it to create a sense of depth.

A wide-angle lens between 16mm and 24mm on a full-frame camera can be useful, although a smartphone's main camera can also produce excellent results.

Symmetry and architectural framing

The pillars and arches offer natural frames.

Position yourself so that a dome, another memorial or a decorative feature appears inside an architectural opening.

These compositions work particularly well when the light is soft and the background is not too distracting.

Close-up architectural photography

Do not spend the entire visit photographing complete buildings.

Look for:

  • Carved floral patterns.

  • Pillar capitals.

  • Decorative arches.

  • Dome finials.

  • Sculptural details.

  • Weathered stone surfaces.

  • Interesting combinations of light and shadow.

These photographs are useful for documenting the craftsmanship that might otherwise go unnoticed.

Black-and-white photography

Chhatri Bagh also lends itself to monochrome photography.

The contrast between the stone surfaces, dark interiors and architectural shadows can create strong black-and-white compositions.

Try photographing the pillars and domes when the sunlight creates defined shadows. The resulting images can communicate the geometry of the structures particularly well.

Hidden Gems and Lesser-known Insights About Chhatri Bagh

Some of the most interesting aspects of Chhatri Bagh are not immediately apparent to casual visitors.

1. The complex reflects multiple generations of Holkar history.

Rather than representing one ruler or one construction period, Chhatri Bagh developed as a royal memorial landscape over time.

2. The memorial architecture is not uniform.

Although the structures share a common architectural tradition, their proportions, decorative treatments and sculptural details differ.

3. Ahilyabai's role extended beyond individual buildings.

Her influence on the development of Holkar memorial architecture helped establish a tradition that subsequent generations continued.

4. Chhatri Bagh should not be confused with Krishnapura Chhatris.

Both are associated with Holkar history and the Khan River landscape, but they are distinct heritage locations. Krishnapura Chhatris are another important group of royal memorials in central Indore.

5. The wider Holkar memorial tradition extends beyond Indore.

The Chhatri of Malhar Rao Holkar at Alampur and the memorials at Maheshwar provide additional context for understanding the dynasty's architectural legacy.

Stories about royal ghosts, hidden treasures or supernatural happenings are sometimes attached to old monuments in popular storytelling. However, there is no sufficiently reliable historical basis to present a specific local legend of that kind as an established Chhatri Bagh tradition. The documented history and architectural details are interesting enough without inventing one.

Best Photography Spots at Chhatri Bagh

For anyone planning a photography walk, these are some compositions worth looking for.

Photography spot

What to photograph

Recommended approach

Main entrance

Entrance architecture and gate

Symmetrical composition

Malhar Rao Holkar memorial

Dome and overall structure

Wide-angle architectural frame

Pillared mandapas

Repeating columns

Perspective and leading lines

Ornamental ceilings

Carvings and decorative work

Upward-facing compositions

Sculptural details

Mythological figures and motifs

Close-up photography

Connecting passages

Interplay of light and shadow

Frame within a frame

What time is best for photography?

Early morning (7 AM–9 AM): This is generally the best time to photograph architectural details without harsh sunlight. The softer light helps preserve detail in both illuminated and shaded sections.

Late afternoon (4 PM–5:30 PM): The changing direction of sunlight can create interesting shadows across the pillars and domes. This is a good time for experimenting with contrast and architectural geometry.

Golden hour: If the surrounding structures and access conditions allow, look for opportunities to photograph the domes against a warm sky.

One practical consideration: opening hours and access to individual enclosures may vary. Check locally before planning a dedicated sunrise or sunset photography session.

Photography Tips for Chhatri Bagh

A few suggestions can help you get more interesting photographs here.

  • Carry a wide-angle lens for architectural compositions.

  • Use a 35mm or 50mm lens for details and environmental portraits.

  • Watch your vertical lines when photographing domes and pillars.

  • Use the grid on your camera or smartphone to improve symmetry.

  • Experiment with reflections if there is water in the accessible surrounding areas.

  • Avoid photographing interiors with excessive exposure compensation.

  • Try both colour and monochrome photographs.

  • Photograph the same structure from different angles instead of taking several similar frontal images.

For smartphone photographers, the 1x camera will often produce more natural architectural proportions than an ultra-wide lens.

Also, avoid using flash inside historical structures unless explicitly permitted. It can disturb other visitors and may be inappropriate for sensitive interiors.

Local Food Experiences: What to Eat After Exploring Chhatri Bagh

A visit to Chhatri Bagh can easily become part of a larger exploration of Indore's food culture.

Indore is one of India's most interesting food destinations, and its culinary identity is closely connected with the city's trading communities, Malwa traditions and influences from neighbouring regions.

The best part is that you do not have to travel far to experience the city's famous food culture.

Poha and jalebi: The classic Indori breakfast

If you are visiting Indore in the morning, begin with a plate of poha and jalebi.

Indori poha is different from the versions commonly found in other parts of India. It is usually light, mildly spiced and garnished with sev, coriander, onions and other accompaniments.

The jalebi provides a contrasting sweetness.

The combination may sound unusual to someone experiencing it for the first time, but it is an important part of the city's everyday food culture.

Bhutte Ka Kees

This is one of the most interesting traditional Malwa preparations.

Bhutte ka kees is made using grated corn cooked with spices, milk and other ingredients. It has a creamy consistency and a distinctive sweet-and-spicy flavour.

It is particularly enjoyable during the cooler months.

Khopra Patties

These crispy snacks have a filling made with coconut and other ingredients. They are commonly found at popular Indore food outlets.

They make an excellent choice when exploring the city's street food scene.

Garadu

If you visit during winter, look for garadu.

This seasonal preparation uses yam, which is cut into pieces, fried and seasoned with spices. It is particularly popular as a winter street-food snack.

Where to eat: Sarafa Bazaar and Chhappan Dukan

Two destinations deserve special mention.

Sarafa Bazaar: During the day, this area is known for its jewellery trade. After the daytime businesses wind down, it transforms into a famous street-food destination. Bhutte ka kees, dahi bada, garadu, sweets and different varieties of chaat are among the popular choices.

Chhappan Dukan: Literally meaning 56 shops, this food destination offers a variety of snacks, poha, jalebi, khopra patties, hot dogs, chaat and desserts.

If you are planning a heritage-focused day in Indore, you could explore Chhatri Bagh and Rajwada during the day and head to Sarafa Bazaar in the evening.

Local Conversations and Human Stories

Historical places become much more interesting when we understand how local communities relate to them.

Chhatri Bagh is not simply an architectural attraction. It is part of a city that continues to live around its historical landmarks.

One interesting aspect of exploring older parts of Indore is the way modern commercial life and traditional neighbourhoods coexist. A short journey can take you from busy markets and contemporary shops to memorial architecture associated with rulers who lived centuries ago.

If you get an opportunity, speak with local residents, shopkeepers or people familiar with the area's history.

Ask them about:

  • How the neighbourhood has changed over the years.

  • Which Holkar monuments they consider especially important.

  • Whether older generations visited Chhatri Bagh regularly.

  • How the Khan River and its surrounding areas have changed.

  • Which lesser-known historical structures they would recommend exploring.

Local knowledge can reveal details that are difficult to find in conventional travel guides.

However, it is worth cross-checking historical anecdotes, especially when dates, identities or stories about individual memorials are involved.

The best travel conversations often begin with a simple question rather than a list of prepared facts.

Best Time to Visit Chhatri Bagh, Indore

The best season to explore Chhatri Bagh is generally between October and March.

The weather is more comfortable during these months, making it easier to explore several heritage attractions in one day.

Season

Conditions

Recommendation

October–November

Pleasant weather, relatively comfortable days

Excellent for heritage walks

December–February

Cooler mornings and evenings

Best for extended exploration

March–April

Increasingly warm

Prefer morning visits

May–June

Hot summer conditions

Avoid afternoon visits

July–September

Monsoon showers and humid conditions

Interesting for atmospheric photography, but check weather

Best time of day

For a relaxed experience, aim to arrive in the morning.

Early visits are particularly useful if you want to photograph architectural details without strong sunlight.

Late afternoon is another possibility, especially if you plan to combine Chhatri Bagh with other heritage attractions.

Some travel listings mention visiting hours of approximately 7 AM to 6 PM and free entry. However, these should be treated as indicative rather than guaranteed current timings. Confirm access with local authorities before travelling.

How to Reach Chhatri Bagh, Indore

Chhatri Bagh is located in the historic part of Indore and can be included in a city heritage tour.

By Air

The nearest airport is Devi Ahilya Bai Holkar Airport (IDR).

The airport has domestic connectivity with several major Indian cities. From the airport, you can hire a taxi or use an app-based cab service to reach the old city.

By Train

Indore Junction is the main railway station.

Indore is connected by rail to cities including Delhi, Mumbai, Bhopal and other major destinations.

From the railway station, you can hire an auto-rickshaw or taxi to reach Chhatri Bagh.

By Road

Indore is well connected to other cities in Madhya Pradesh and neighbouring states.

Regular buses and private taxis operate on routes connecting Indore with Ujjain, Bhopal, Dewas, Maheshwar and other destinations.

Getting around Indore

For exploring the heritage attractions, auto-rickshaws and app-based taxis are convenient.

However, some older neighbourhoods have narrow lanes and limited vehicle access. It is often easier to get dropped nearby and explore the final stretch on foot.

Other Heritage Sites in Indore Near Chhatri Bagh

One of the advantages of visiting Chhatri Bagh is that you can combine it with several other historical attractions.

These locations provide a more complete understanding of Indore's architectural and cultural heritage.

1. Rajwada Palace

Rajwada is among the most recognisable historical landmarks in Indore.

Built by the Holkars, this seven-storeyed palace represents a fascinating blend of Maratha, Mughal and European architectural influences.

Its large wooden entrance, stone lower levels, upper wooden structures and courtyard make it an important destination for anyone interested in the Holkar dynasty.

2. Krishnapura Chhatris

These are another important group of Holkar memorial structures located near the Khan River.

The chhatris are particularly interesting because of their elaborate architectural detailing and relationship with the riverfront landscape.

Do not confuse Krishnapura Chhatris with Chhatri Bagh. They are separate locations and deserve individual exploration.

3. Kanch Mandir

Kanch Mandir is one of Indore's most distinctive religious landmarks.

The Jain temple is famous for its extensive use of glass and mirror work, creating an unusual visual experience inside the structure.

Its reflective interiors make it particularly interesting from an architectural and cultural perspective.

4. Lal Bagh Palace

Lal Bagh Palace provides another perspective on the lifestyle and architectural preferences of the later Holkar rulers.

The palace is known for its European-inspired interiors, decorative furnishings and grand architectural design.

It is particularly interesting when compared with the more traditional memorial architecture of Chhatri Bagh.

5. Gandhi Hall

Originally known as King Edward Hall, this early twentieth-century building is an interesting example of Indo-Gothic architecture in Indore.

Its clock tower, arches and imposing façade make it a worthwhile stop for architecture enthusiasts.

These locations together make Indore one of the more rewarding cities for exploring the historical architecture of central India.

Where to Stay in Indore

Your choice of accommodation depends on whether you prefer staying close to historical attractions, food destinations or modern commercial areas.

Old Indore and Rajwada area

Staying around the old city makes it easier to explore Rajwada, Sarafa Bazaar and other traditional neighbourhoods.

This is a convenient option for travellers interested in heritage and local culture.

However, check the accessibility of your hotel, parking arrangements and road conditions before booking. Some older neighbourhoods can be busy and congested.

MG Road and central Indore

The central city offers a balance between accessibility, shopping, restaurants and transportation.

It is a practical option for travellers who want to explore both old and newer parts of Indore.

Vijay Nagar

Vijay Nagar is a modern commercial area with several hotels, restaurants and contemporary facilities.

It is suitable for travellers who prefer newer accommodation and easy access to shopping and dining options.

For a short heritage-focused trip, I would generally prioritise accommodation around central Indore rather than choosing a hotel far outside the city.

Budget Tips for Exploring Chhatri Bagh and Indore

Indore can be explored without spending a lot of money, especially if you focus on its heritage attractions and street-food culture.

Some practical suggestions:

  • Check whether Chhatri Bagh has free entry when you visit.

  • Use auto-rickshaws for shorter distances.

  • Combine nearby heritage attractions into one walking itinerary.

  • Eat at local food establishments rather than relying entirely on hotel restaurants.

  • Book accommodation in advance during festivals and holiday periods.

  • Avoid unnecessary private vehicle rentals if you are exploring only the city centre.

  • Carry drinking water, particularly during warmer months.

A heritage walk can be one of the most economical ways to understand Indore.

Suggested One-Day Heritage Itinerary for Indore

If you have only one day in Indore, I would suggest combining its historical attractions with its famous food culture.

Time

Destination

Experience

7:30 AM

Local breakfast

Poha and jalebi

8:30 AM

Chhatri Bagh

Explore Holkar memorial architecture

10:00 AM

Krishnapura Chhatris

Discover another group of royal cenotaphs

11:00 AM

Rajwada Palace

Explore Holkar history

12:30 PM

Kanch Mandir

Appreciate Jain architecture

1:30 PM

Lunch

Enjoy a local Malwi meal

3:30 PM

Gandhi Hall

Explore Indo-Gothic architecture

4:30 PM

Local markets

Explore the old city's commercial heritage

8:30 PM onwards

Sarafa Bazaar

Experience Indore's famous street food

This itinerary can be adjusted depending on opening hours, traffic and the time you want to spend photographing each attraction.

If you are particularly interested in architecture, allow more time for Chhatri Bagh and the two groups of Holkar memorials.

Responsible Travel Tips When Visiting Chhatri Bagh

Historical monuments require a little more consideration than ordinary tourist attractions.

These structures are part of the region's cultural heritage and should be treated with respect.

A few simple practices make a difference:

  • Do not write, scratch or carve anything on the monument surfaces.

  • Avoid touching delicate carvings unnecessarily.

  • Do not litter inside the complex.

  • Respect restricted areas and instructions from local authorities.

  • Ask permission before photographing people.

  • Avoid loud music or disruptive behaviour.

  • Do not climb on memorial structures for photographs.

  • Avoid using drones without the necessary permissions.

Also, remember that cenotaphs are memorial structures. Their historical and cultural significance deserves respect, even when they are being visited primarily for photography.

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Visiting Chhatri Bagh

1. Treating it as a quick photography stop

Chhatri Bagh has several structures and architectural details. Spending only a few minutes here means missing much of its character.

2. Confusing Chhatri Bagh with Krishnapura Chhatris

Both are important Holkar memorials, but they are different locations.

3. Visiting during harsh afternoon sunlight

Strong sunlight can create difficult contrasts between the illuminated exterior and darker interiors. Morning and late afternoon are generally better.

4. Ignoring the smaller architectural details

The domes attract attention, but the pillars, arches and ornamental carvings are equally interesting.

5. Assuming all structures are accessible

Access to individual memorials and interiors may vary. Do not assume every structure can be entered.

6. Planning around unverified timings

Check local opening arrangements before travelling, especially if your schedule is tight.

Frequently Asked Questions About Chhatri Bagh, Indore

1. What is Chhatri Bagh famous for?

Chhatri Bagh is famous for its collection of royal cenotaphs built in memory of members of the Holkar dynasty. The memorials are known for their domes, carved pillars, traditional architecture and historical associations.

2. Where is Chhatri Bagh located in Indore?

Chhatri Bagh is located in the old historical area of Indore, Madhya Pradesh, near the Khan River. It can be included in a heritage tour covering Rajwada Palace and other Holkar monuments.

3. Who built Chhatri Bagh in Indore?

The Chhatri Bagh memorial tradition developed under the Holkar dynasty. Maharani Ahilyabai Holkar played an important role in establishing the tradition of constructing cenotaphs for deceased members of the royal family. Subsequent Holkar rulers continued it.

4. Which Holkar rulers have memorials at Chhatri Bagh?

The complex contains memorials associated with several members of the Holkar family, including Malhar Rao Holkar I, Male Rao Holkar, Khande Rao Holkar and Tukoji Rao Holkar I, among others.

5. What is the architectural style of Chhatri Bagh?

The architecture reflects traditional Indian memorial pavilion forms, with influences from Maratha and Rajput architectural traditions. Its distinguishing features include domes, pillared mandapas, arches, decorative finials and sculptural details.

6. Is Chhatri Bagh worth visiting?

Yes. It is particularly worthwhile for travellers interested in history, heritage architecture, photography and the Holkar dynasty. It also provides a quieter alternative to some of Indore's busier tourist attractions.

7. What are the timings of Chhatri Bagh?

Some travel guides list visiting hours as approximately 7 AM to 6 PM. However, timings and access arrangements may change. Confirm the current schedule locally before visiting.

8. Is there an entry fee for Chhatri Bagh?

Some travel listings report free entry. It is advisable to confirm current entry arrangements before your visit.

9. How much time is needed to explore Chhatri Bagh?

Allow approximately 45 minutes to 1.5 hours, depending on your interest in architecture and photography. Visitors interested in detailed architectural documentation may want to spend longer.

10. What is the best time to photograph Chhatri Bagh?

Early morning and late afternoon are generally the most suitable periods. Soft light helps capture architectural details, while changing shadows create interesting compositions around the pillars and domes.

11. What other heritage sites in Indore can be visited nearby?

Some important attractions include Rajwada Palace, Krishnapura Chhatris, Kanch Mandir, Lal Bagh Palace and Gandhi Hall. These can be combined into a one-day or two-day heritage itinerary.

12. Can Chhatri Bagh be combined with a food tour of Indore?

Absolutely. You can explore the historical attractions during the day and visit Sarafa Bazaar in the evening for local street food. Chhappan Dukan is another popular destination for experiencing Indore's food culture.

13. Is Chhatri Bagh suitable for architectural photography?

Yes. The memorials offer opportunities for wide-angle architectural photography, symmetry, geometric compositions, close-up details and black-and-white photography.

Final Thoughts: Chhatri Bagh Is an Important Part of Indore's Historical Identity

Indore is often introduced to visitors through its food, markets and contemporary urban identity. However, spending time exploring its historical landmarks reveals a much deeper story.

Chhatri Bagh is one of those places that helps connect the present-day city with its royal past.

Its memorials preserve the architectural traditions of the Holkar dynasty and offer glimpses into the way royal families commemorated their ancestors. The domes, pillars, carvings and enclosed courtyards are more than decorative elements. Together, they represent an important chapter in the cultural history of Malwa.

What makes Chhatri Bagh particularly interesting is that it does not demand attention through sheer scale or grandeur. Instead, it rewards visitors who slow down, observe architectural details and take an interest in the stories behind the structures.

For photographers, it is an opportunity to explore the relationship between light, stone and architecture. For history enthusiasts, it offers a window into the Holkar dynasty. And for travellers discovering Indore beyond its famous food streets, it provides another reason to appreciate the city's cultural richness.

There are many heritage sites in Madhya Pradesh that deserve more attention from travellers, and Chhatri Bagh is certainly among the places that should feature in a broader exploration of the state's historical architecture.

The next time you are in Indore, consider giving its royal memorials a little more time. You might discover a side of the city that is easy to overlook but difficult to forget.

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Chhatri of Vithoji Rao Holkar in Maheshwar, Madhya Pradesh: History, Architecture and Photography 


Among the many Mandu Heritage Sites to explore, Jami Masjid stands out for a quality that is becoming increasingly rare in historic places: the ability to make you slow down. There are no elaborate painted ceilings demanding immediate attention, no colourful palace rooms to photograph in quick succession, and no elaborate displays explaining every corner. Instead, there is a vast courtyard, imposing arches, weathered stone, and an architectural rhythm that gradually reveals itself as you walk through the complex.


Some historical places draw you in through their architecture. Others make you pause because of the landscape surrounding them. Roopmati Mahal in Mandu, Madhya Pradesh, belongs to the second kind. Perched high above the Narmada valley, this historic pavilion brings together the romance of an old legend, the beauty of Malwa's rugged plateau and views that seem to stretch endlessly towards the horizon.


Imagine a long stone palace standing between two lakes, its domes rising above the water and its reflection changing with every passing cloud. From a distance, the building almost looks like a ship that has dropped anchor in the middle of a medieval landscape.  This is Jahaz Mahal in Mandu, Madhya Pradesh, one of the most distinctive monuments in central India.

Jahaz Mahal in Mandu: One of the Main Places to See in Mandu, Madhya Pradesh


Introduction: A Taste of Madhya Pradesh Beyond the Famous Food Streets Some of the most memorable experiences of travelling in India begin when you sit down for a meal you have never tried before. In Madhya Pradesh, that experience can come in the form of dal bafle served hot with ghee, or paniya, a rustic preparation made from maize flour that carries the flavours of rural central India. If you want to understand the food in Madhya Pradesh, these traditional dishes offer a delicious starting point.


One of Ujala Bawadi's most distinctive features is the way its staircases approach the water. Rather than presenting a single, straightforward descent, the structure combines different stair flights, including a more direct arrangement on one side and a turning, zigzagging route on the other.  This asymmetry makes the stepwell particularly interesting from an architectural perspective. The stairs create strong diagonal lines, while the landings and arched sections interrupt the geometry at different levels.  For visitors accustomed to symmetrical palace courtyards, this arrangement offers a refreshing change. It is also one reason Ujala Bawadi can be so rewarding to photograph. The eye moves naturally along the stairs towards the water, creating a sense of depth even in a relatively tight composition.

Ujala Bawadi: A Hidden Gem Among Mandu Heritage Sites in Madhya Pradesh, India



Aerial Photography around the land of Pan Singh Tomar ( Morena District of Madhya Pradesh, INDIA ) - Mitavali, Padavali, Sabalgarh Fort, Bateshwara, Kankanmath, Rahughat Chambal, Jawahargarh Quila, Shahadpur Garhi, Bagchini, Bareh, Morena



Suhania Kakanmath Temple in Morena region of Madhya Pradesh, India


To cut the suspense - no, we did not see a tiger. Though the way our guide was talking about it, we are more of an exception than a rule. Apparently during the morning safari, they had seen a tigress with cubs. But yes we saw a lot and it is definitely worth talking about.

Spots and Stripes at Panna National Park || Guess what we saw at the Tiger Reserve



Bateshwar Group of Temples in Morena region of Madhya Pradesh, India


We hadn't really planned to visit Gadhi Padhavali in Morena, but we happened to be in the vicinity. We had travelled to Mitaoli to visit the Chausath Yogini temple near Morena, Madhya Pradesh, and VJ knew that there were other interesting sites around. Several years ago, he had done a helicopter tour of this area for a Photography assignment.

Ancient Shiva Temple at Garhi Padhavali in Madhya Pradesh || A hidden architectural marvel in the remote rural landscape of Morena


Last year I was out in Morena district of Madhya Pradesh and got to explore some very interesting places. Although it was summer season but uniqueness of these places made the visit worth.There are stories associated that architecture of Indian Parliament is inspired from the Chausath Yogini Temple in Mitawali (Mitaoli). This campus is in circular shape, as you can see these photograph. There is an outer region with 64 ('chausath' in hindi) pillars and a temple in the middle. Between the pillars, there are various small temples.There are other Chausath Yogini Temples in other parts of India. I have been to the other one in Jabalpur (Madhya Pradesh)  and that's also similar, but probably smaller in size. Other Yogini temples are situated in Ranipur Jharial & Hirapur in Orissa and Khajuraho.As you can see in these photographs, this place is situated in dry region. One needs to trek to reach the temple, although the path is very well maintained.Chausath Yogini Temple, Mitawali AKA Ekattarso Mahadeva Temple, Mitaoli is dedicated to chausath yogini. This circular structure has 170 feet radius, located on 100 feet mountain.

Chausath Yamini Temple @ MItawali in Morena region of Madhya Pradesh, India


We simply needed a break from our day to day busy life, hence we planned a short trip to Pachmarhi. Pachmarhi is widely known as “the queen of Satpura” and also called “the trekker’s paradise”. Pachmarhi is a hill station in the Hoshangabad district of Madhya Pradesh state of central India. It has been the location of a cantonment (Pachmarhi Cantonment) since British Raj. This beautiful region in the hills was discovered by Captain James Forsyth in 1857. This most popular hill station of Madhya Pradesh is a treasure for travellers because of its ancient caves of the Buddhist era and its serene waterfalls..      More from Madhya Pradesh - Main places to visit & explore around Jabalpur, Madhya Pradesh (India)        If we talk about how to reach Panchmarhi, there are multiple ways. Pachmarhi is 195 kms from the nearest airport in Bhopal. The nearest railway station is Pipariya which is 50kms from Pachmarhi. Bus services to Pachmarhi are available from Bhopal, Nagpur, Jabalpur, Chhindwara, Pipariya and other places. There are 7 buses daily to Bhopal which take just 6-7 hours. Buses are operated by the Madhya Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation as well as other private companies.

Pachmarhi in Madhya Pradesh – Paradise for the Trekkers


Bhopal, the capital of Madhya Pradesh, is often called the City of Lakes thanks to its scenic upper and lower lakes that define the cityscape. But Bhopal is much more than water and landscapes — it is a city where Islamic architecture, tribal traditions, Mughal heritage, modern art, and natural escapes coexist.

Bhopal Travel Guide: City of Lakes, Culture, and Contrasts - Capital Cities of Indian States [Madhya Pradesh]


Datia in Madhya Pradesh was another location that we covered on our very productive drive back from Khajuraho to Noida. Upon reaching Datia, the state of the roads and the feel of the colony was such that we almost turned back. However a very enticing view of the Datia Palace, which is visible from quite a distance, kept us going.

The Splendid Datia Palace in Madhya Pradesh || A Secluded, Desolate, yet Beautiful Building that has Stood Strong Against the Tides of Time


Gwalior Fort is an impressive historic fort located in the city of Gwalior, Madhya Pradesh. The fort is one of the largest and most significant forts in India and is a must-visit destination for anyone interested in history and architecture.

Exploring the Grandeur and Rich History of Gwalior Fort in Madhya Pradesh, India


The Badal Mahal Gate is an important historical monument in Chanderi and is a popular tourist attraction. It is a symbol of the town's rich cultural heritage and is visited by thousands of tourists every year. The gate is also an important pilgrimage site for Muslims, as it houses a mosque inside its premises. In summary, the Badal Mahal Gate is a beautiful and iconic structure that is a must-visit destination for those interested in history, architecture, and culture.

Chanderi in Madhya Pradesh state of Incredible India - A Town That Weaves Magic With Silk and Stories


Many times it happens that we are in a particular region and some extra time in hand to explore. So if you are around Khajuraho and only have one day for exploraing the place, I am attemping to list down details itenreray here with details like, when to start, where to go, where to eat, what to skip even if it sounds tempting and why, and the most importantly must epxlore places. Certainly perferences may change on the basis of your interests and we shall also cover that in the end of the blogpost.




When we visited Khajuraho, we had a packed first day when we explored the Western, Eastern, and Southern Groups of temples. And after we were done with that, we had another complete day in the city. So we decided to visit some of the nearby places. We planned for Raneh Falls in the first half and then explore Pandava Caves in the second half. Pandava Caves did not happen because we ended up going for a safari in Panna National Park (Read about that exciting experience here), but Raneh falls did, and it was absolutely wonderful.





We were in Khajuraho, Madhya Pradesh, in October 2021 when the pandemic had relented for a bit and had loved the city. It had the air of tiny, charming hamlets where you could stay for days and relax. It looked like a good place to spend your days and evenings drinking beer in one of the many cafes facing the Western Group of Temples, and just chill. And when it comes to evenings, you should plan to spend at least one watching the sound and light show that is organized in the Western Group of Temples.



Khajuraho has three groups of temples - Western, Eastern and Southern. Of these, the Western Group of Temples is the most famous. This is the place that is most frequented  by tourists. It is also at the center of Khajuraho, opposite the most happening marketplace and cafe street. It is also the place where the Light and Sound Show happens.




Last winters we drove to Madhya Pradesh from Delhi and we didn't have any definitive plan. We debated multiple plans but finally booked stay in Orchha for 2 days and from thereon we planned on runtime. Finally this road-trip turned out a great success because we had wonderful experiences and most importantly we explored so many things we had never thought. and that's what I love when I say 'travel'. The motivation was to visit Orchha to see Dussehra there as Orchha is considered the land of Raja Ram, where Ram is worshipped as a king and great arrangements are done by private trusts in collaboration with local administration. This Blogpost will share about the itenerary we followed and it can be a great plan for anyone who loves driving and specially in winters, as this part of the country is usually super-hot in summers.



Whenever we travel different places, we try to find any place which can offer local food. Honestly we don't put lot of efforts to find local food when we are on the move but we have been lucky most of the times.  When we were in Kajuraho, we noticed that Khajuraho has plenty of those cool cafes with nice ambiance and most of them are serving all the fancier food which is served in Restaurants in Delhi. I personally prefer simpler food so I skip some of these places, unless there is no other good option around or in case, we feel lie having snacks with a good drink. Like we loved the Raja Cafe which is in front of Western Group of Temples in Khajuraho.     We were staying in Golden Tulip and checked with the staff about what kind of things they serve which are known as Madhya Pradesh delicacies. The response was not very convincing, so we chose to have most of the meals outside and go to different places. But most of the times, we were landing at good places with all the options which we get usually around our place in Noida.     During one of the conversations, someone recommend this Marwadi Thali place which was very close to our hotel. The place is called Badri Seth Marwari Bhoj and this place served other Indian food options as well.    While driving back, Vibha and I were wondering about key dishes of Madhya Pradesh that anyone should try. Then she reminded me about our morning walks in Khajuraho when we used to see MP Breakfast options in small halwai shops. You will find Poha which is popular in Madhya Pradesh, Jalebi and Dal Bafla. We saw people making Dal Bafla but not sure if that's consumed during breakfast or in lunch. Then we also realised that probably small dhabas may be serving some Madhya Pradesh food, which we may have missed.  Probably during our next trip we will try some of these following things in Madhya Pradesh.   - Poha  - Dal Bafla  - Bhutte ki Kees  - Palak Poori  - Bhopal Gosht Korma  - Chakki ki Shak  - Malpua  - Mawa Bati  - Jalebi    If you are from Madhya Pradesh or know about MP food, please drop a comment below to share your inputs/suggestions. Thanks !



While it is the Western Group of Temples that the city of Khajuraho is most famous for, there is a small but stunning temple that stands proud very close to the Western Group of Temples. While walking towards the Western Group of Temples from the Airport road (crossing Gold Tulip), there is a gate that looks like it does not lead anywhere. It is this gate that you would need to enter to visit the Chausath Yogini Temple.



On the Eastern side of Khajuraho, at about 2 kilometers from the Western Group of Temples, are the magnificent Jain temples, where unlike in other temples, active prayers and worship are still conducted. These temples are a part of the Eastern Group of Temples of Khajuraho. Like other temples of the area, you can also spot some erotic sculptures here, but many of them feature one mythical beast known as Shardul. We will talk about this entity later.




Most tourists, before actually visiting Khajuraho, are already aware of the Western Group of Temples, owing to the hype around the erotic sculptures. A little research wakes them up to the presence of two more groups of temples - the eastern group of temples and the southern group of temples.   In this blog post, we will talk about one temple in the Eastern Group of Temples. We have already talked about the Jain temples, which are also part of the Eastern Group of Temples. Now we will talk about Vamana temple, which is a smallish temple about 2 kilometers from the Khajuraho Jain Temples.




There are two main temples in the Southern Group of Temples in Khajuraho - Duladeo temple and Chaturbhuj Temple. The Duladeo temple is dedicated to Lord Shiv, whereas the Charturbhuj Temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu, who is also known as Chaturbhuj. This temple is also known as Jatakari temple as it is located in the village Jatakari near Khajuraho.



The second temple in the Southern Group of Temples is the Dulhadeo temple. When we visited the temple it was under restoration, so we weren't able to look at the temple up close, but even from the distance the temple looked quite majestic standing alone amid vast lawns.   The Dulhadeo temple's name means "divine bridegroom". The temple is 2.1km from the Western Group of Temples and 1.6km from the Chaturbhuj temple, the second temple of the Southern Group of Temples. The approach road to this temple is a tough ride.



The Javari temple in Khajuraho is a part of the Eastern Group of Temples. It is 1.5km from the Western Group of Temples and about 250m from Brahma Temple. There is a narrow dust trail leading to the temple and your car drive right up to the temple complex.   The Javari temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu, and has a four-armed idol in its sanctum. The statue is, however, now broken and headless. The temple, though small, is considered to be one of the most beautiful temples in Khajuraho.   The temple is built in Nirandhar style, which means that there is no ambulatory passage around the sanctum. It sits on a podium and has a portico, vestibule, mandapa, and a sanctum. The entrance has a makar toran that consists of four decorated loops.   Both the interiors and exterior of the temple are beautifully adorned with sculptures. There are sculptures of the trinity and the navagraha and on the exterior wall there are two bands of sculptures of couples in various positions.   The Javari temple, for some reason, was very difficult for me to write about. May be it is the headless idol or the fact that the temple is kind of secluded. But I realized that this is a perfect setting for a horror movie.



One of the temples of the Eastern Group of Temples in Khajuraho is the Brahma Temple. What is most interesting about this temple is that it is not a Brahma Temple at all. It is actually a temple of Lord Shiva. The temple's sanctum contains a four-faced lingam which led people to believe that this is a temple of Lord Brahma.  Unlike the other temples in Khajuraho that are built with grainstone, the Brahma Temple is made of granite. The shikhara of the temple is built with sandstone. It is said that the temple was built during the period of transition from granite to sandstone.   The outer walls are mostly devoid of sculptures and the plan is comparatively simpler when compared to the other temples of Khajuraho. The temple originally consisted of a garbha-griha and a porch. The porch has now been destroyed, and only the garbha-griha remains which houses the chaturmukh ling.   The temple is built on the banks of the Khajuraho Sagar lake and is 1.3kms from the Western Group of temples. One of the charms of the Eastern Group of Temples and the Southern Group of temples is to reach these temples, you need to cross villages, fields and general human activity. So these temples give you a better glimpse of the city of Khajuraho.

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