Madhya Pradesh State of India: A Complete Travel Guide for First-Time Visitors

Nested between the Kandariya Mahadev and the Devi Jagdambi Temples is a small temple knowns as the Mahadev Shrine. The sculpture of a rampant lion fighting a kneeling figure has been installed on the porch. This is supposed to be the emblem of the Chandelas.


Introduction: Why a Madhya Pradesh Trip Feels Different

A Madhya Pradesh Trip rarely begins with one obvious attraction.

Like a lot of things in our recent travel life, Mitaoli also happened to us by chance. We hadn't really planned to cover it during our recent trip to Khajuraho, but a timely advice helped put it on our map on our return journey. And since we were determined to make the most of our trip, we wanted to cover as many places as we realistically could.

There is no single monument that defines the state. Instead, Madhya Pradesh reveals itself slowly — through the sound of temple bells in Khajuraho, the orange light falling across the Betwa River at Orchha, the sudden silence of a tiger forest, the smell of poha and jalebi at an Indore breakfast stall, and the almost unbelievable realization that some of India's oldest human paintings are hidden inside sandstone shelters not far from Bhopal.

The dispute apparently was about a religious travel. While the king wanted to go to Vrindavan, the queen wanted to go to Ayodhya. The argument resulted in the queen being banished from the Kingdom with a diktat that she will only be allowed re-entry if she is able to bring back Lord Ram from Ayodhya. The Queen went to Ayodhya and did tough sadhana for 21 days. However, when Lord Ram did not appear even after that, she jumped into the river Sarayu. From where she emerged with Lord Ram as a child in her lap.   When the Queen requested Lord Ram to accompany her to Orchha, the Lord agreed on some conditions. She was to travel to Orchha on foot, walking only on Pukh Nakshatra, and he would take a permanent seat at the place where he is set down first, and after he takes a seat at Orchha, he will be the King and there will be no other Kings at Orchha after this. The queen agreed to all these conditions and started her journey back to Orchha. In the meanwhile, the King in Orchha had a dream where Lord Krishna reprimanded him for differentiating between Lord Ram and Lord Krishna.

This is perhaps what makes travelling through Madhya Pradesh so rewarding.

The state sits almost at the geographical heart of India, but its real significance is cultural. Ancient Buddhist traditions, Rajput kingdoms, Mughal-era architecture, Maratha influence, tribal communities, medieval Islamic architecture and remarkably rich wildlife landscapes all overlap here.

The state sits almost at the geographical heart of India, but its real significance is cultural. Ancient Buddhist traditions, Rajput kingdoms, Mughal-era architecture, Maratha influence, tribal communities, medieval Islamic architecture and remarkably rich wildlife landscapes all overlap here.

But after this, Jhansi saw a series of bad Administrators that led to Jhansi's financial position deteriorating considerably. The British had however accepted Raghunath Rao (III) as the Raja of Jhansi and that led to his son Gangadhar Rao inheriting the throne and he turned out to be a good King.

For a photographer, Madhya Pradesh is particularly fascinating because the visual character changes dramatically every few hundred kilometres.

You can photograph prehistoric rock art in the morning, medieval temples in the afternoon and a forest landscape at sunrise the next day.

You can photograph prehistoric rock art in the morning, medieval temples in the afternoon and a forest landscape at sunrise the next day.

Another major story that led to the addition of the biggest and most impressive and imposing structure in the fort complex is that of Raja Bir Singh Deo's friendship with Shehenshah Jahangir after Bir Singh Deo helped assassinate Abul Fazl, one of the navratns of Badshah Akbar, who was also one of the only obstacles in Shehzada Salim (later Jahangir) ascending the throne after his father.

And unlike destinations where every famous attraction feels heavily packaged for visitors, many parts of Madhya Pradesh still offer opportunities to slow down, wander, observe and photograph without constantly feeling that you are following a predetermined tourist route.

That is the real appeal of a trip to Madhya Pradesh.


In almost all temples dedicated to them, the yoginis are depicted in different forms and poses. In some they are sitting in Lalitasana. In some they are depicted standing with their animal vehicles. However, in the Chausath Yogini Temple in Mitaoli, the images of the Yoginis have all been replaced by those of shivling. May be that is why the temple is also known as Ekattarso Mahadev temple.

Why Take a Trip to Madhya Pradesh?

Madhya Pradesh is one of those Indian states where several completely different journeys can be stitched together.

The official tourism portfolio itself spans heritage destinations such as Khajuraho, Sanchi, Bhimbetka, Mandu, Orchha, Gwalior and Chanderi, alongside wildlife destinations including Kanha, Bandhavgarh, Pench, Panna and Kuno.

For a first visit, five experiences stand out.

Khajuraho has three groups of temples - Western, Eastern and Southern. Of these, the Western Group of Temples is the most famous. This is the place that is most frequented  by tourists. It is also at the center of Khajuraho, opposite the most happening marketplace and cafe street. It is also the place where the Light and Sound Show happens.

1. Ancient India without the usual crowds

Khajuraho is internationally famous, but its sculptures are only one part of the story. The temples reveal an extraordinary combination of architecture, mythology, everyday life and artistic expression.

Panna National Park  Panna National Park is situated in the central Indian state of Madhya Pradesh, at a distance of around 57 km from Khajuraho. It was created in 1981 and was declared a Project Tiger Reserve by Government of India in 1994.The region, famous for its diamond industry, is also home to some of the best wildlife species in India and is one of the most famous Tiger Reserves in the country. The park is known worldwide for its wild cats, including tigers as well as deer and antelope. Due to its closeness to one of the best-known Indian tourist attraction in India, Khajuraho, the park is recognized as an exciting stop-over destination.Tiger sighting is always a matter of chance but regular sightings of animals like Leopard, Wolf and Gharial. Herds of Blue Bulls, Chinkaras and Sambars are a common sight. The park can probably boast of the highest density of the Paradise Fly-Catchers. This rich avian and faunal life combined with its picturesque scenery make a visit to the Park memorable.The avifauna comprises more than 200 species, including a host of migratory birds. One can see white necked stork, bareheaded goose, honey Buuzzard, King vulture, Blossom headed Parakeet, Paradise flycatcher, Slaty headed Scimitar babbler to name a few.Till few years back, Panna Wildlife Sanctuary was popular by the name of Panna Tiger Reserve and attracted wildlife lovers from all over the world. But with the disappearance of Tiger population from Panna National Park, it becomes is struggling to maintain its identity. But now authorities of Panna National Park have made up their mind to promote it as a National Park having rare species of Vultures. So picture of Vulture/s give a new face to Panna National Park. Presence of 6 rare species of vultures in Panna forest are being promoted to give some reason to wildlife lovers for visiting it. About 1700 Vultures have been counted in Panna National Park.The Ken river , which flows through the Reserve from south to north, is home for Gharial and Mugger, and other aquatic fauna and is one of the least polluted rivers and a tributary of Yamuna. It is one of the sixteen perennial rivers of Madhya Pradesh and is truly the life line of the Reserve. Ken offers some of the most spectacular scenery to the visitor while it meanders for some 55 km through the reserve.Nearby resorts, offer a variety of nature excursions. Morning and evening walks in the lap of nature are truly wonderful experiences.We saw the national Bird in its full beauty. Doing a beautiful dance to woo the Pehen during the rains.And of course we too got drenched in those rains.There are no jeeps provided by the park authorities, so you will have to rent your own jeep for a safari into the park. Mostly the resorts around the park have their own jeeps which can be hired for the Safari. There are two timings for the Safari - Morning and Evening. We experienced both of them and both were equally nice and interesting.Overall, Panna National park is a must visit for nature and animal lovers!

2. Some of India's best wildlife

Kanha, Bandhavgarh and Pench offer classic Central Indian forest experiences, while Panna provides a very different landscape around the Ken River.

The temple is a few meters away from the Raja Ram temple and was supposed to be the Abode of the Raja Ram's idol, which is currently placed at the Raja Ram temple. Apparently the idol refused to be moved from its place from the original Rani Mahal. This Mahal was then renamed Raja Ram Temple and Chaturbhuj temple became a temple dedicated to the four-armed avatar of Lord Vishnu "Chaturbhuj".

3. Medieval towns that still feel atmospheric

Orchha and Mandu are especially rewarding because their monuments are embedded within living landscapes rather than isolated behind modern city development.

The Chaturbhuj Temple is one of the most noticeable element of Orchha Skyline. Its Vimana stands tall and can be viewed from miles away. In a way, it is like the centerpiece around which the Orchha town has grown. When you think of a temple like this, you expect it to be as opulent inside as its exteriors are. But that is one of the interesting aspects of this temple. Its insides are stark and bare with one idol at the extreme end of it. Once you are inside, it is easy to forget how imposing it is when viewed from a distance.

4. Extraordinary prehistoric history

Bhimbetka is not simply another archaeological site. Its rock shelters preserve paintings spanning prehistoric and later periods and offer evidence of a remarkably long relationship between people and the landscape. UNESCO recognizes the site for this cultural continuity.

Whenever we travel different places, we try to find any place which can offer local food. Honestly we don't put lot of efforts to find local food when we are on the move but we have been lucky most of the times.  When we were in Kajuraho, we noticed that Khajuraho has plenty of those cool cafes with nice ambiance and most of them are serving all the fancier food which is served in Restaurants in Delhi. I personally prefer simpler food so I skip some of these places, unless there is no other good option around or in case, we feel lie having snacks with a good drink. Like we loved the Raja Cafe which is in front of Western Group of Temples in Khajuraho.     We were staying in Golden Tulip and checked with the staff about what kind of things they serve which are known as Madhya Pradesh delicacies. The response was not very convincing, so we chose to have most of the meals outside and go to different places. But most of the times, we were landing at good places with all the options which we get usually around our place in Noida.     During one of the conversations, someone recommend this Marwadi Thali place which was very close to our hotel. The place is called Badri Seth Marwari Bhoj and this place served other Indian food options as well.    While driving back, Vibha and I were wondering about key dishes of Madhya Pradesh that anyone should try. Then she reminded me about our morning walks in Khajuraho when we used to see MP Breakfast options in small halwai shops. You will find Poha which is popular in Madhya Pradesh, Jalebi and Dal Bafla. We saw people making Dal Bafla but not sure if that's consumed during breakfast or in lunch. Then we also realised that probably small dhabas may be serving some Madhya Pradesh food, which we may have missed.  Probably during our next trip we will try some of these following things in Madhya Pradesh.   - Poha  - Dal Bafla  - Bhutte ki Kees  - Palak Poori  - Bhopal Gosht Korma  - Chakki ki Shak  - Malpua  - Mawa Bati  - Jalebi    If you are from Madhya Pradesh or know about MP food, please drop a comment below to share your inputs/suggestions. Thanks !

5. Food that deserves more attention

Madhya Pradesh's food is often overshadowed by better-known cuisines from neighbouring states. That is a mistake.

Indore's breakfast culture, Malwa's dal bafla, bhutte ka kees, poha-jalebi and seasonal street food can become some of the most memorable parts of the journey.


The temple is about 2.7kms from the Eastern Group of Temples. Overall almost all temples in khajuraho are located relatively close by. However, the state and width of roads vary. Sometimes you need to drive through fields or crowded villages, so distances may take longer or shorter to cover.   The Southern Group of temples is definitely worth a visit, but you will find several vendors selling memorabilia. When we visited in 2021, the country was still recovering from a vicious wave of Delta variant of Covid. And these vendors were in a desperate condition, unlike the relatively prosperous ones near the Western Group of Temples. I do hope their situations have improved now.

Madhya Pradesh Trip: Understanding the History Behind the Landscape

Madhya Pradesh is less a single historical story than a collection of overlapping chapters.

The Buddhist monuments of Sanchi take you back to the Mauryan period and Emperor Ashoka. UNESCO describes Sanchi as one of the oldest surviving Buddhist sanctuaries, with monuments dating predominantly from the 2nd and 1st centuries BCE. The site remained an important Buddhist centre for centuries.

Move forward in time and Khajuraho introduces the Chandela dynasty.

The temples were built broadly between the 10th and 11th centuries, and their surviving sculptures are much more varied than the modern tourist image of Khajuraho suggests. UNESCO and Madhya Pradesh Tourism highlight the sophistication of the temple architecture and the breadth of sculptural themes.

Bhopal, the capital of Madhya Pradesh, is often called the City of Lakes thanks to its scenic upper and lower lakes that define the cityscape. But Bhopal is much more than water and landscapes — it is a city where Islamic architecture, tribal traditions, Mughal heritage, modern art, and natural escapes coexist.

Then there is Mandu.

Here, architecture becomes inseparable from landscape and legend. The romantic story of Baz Bahadur and Rani Roopmati has become part of Mandu's cultural identity, while the city's surviving palaces, pavilions and mosques reveal its importance under medieval Afghan rulers.

Food in Bhopal Bhopal’s cuisine reflects Mughal and tribal influences, offering a mix of spicy kebabs and hearty curries.

Orchha offers yet another character.

Established by the Bundela Rajputs, it grew beside the Betwa River and today feels almost suspended between history and the present.

And then comes Bhimbetka — a reminder that Madhya Pradesh's history doesn't begin with kings.

It begins with human beings looking at stone and deciding to leave something behind.


Begums of Bhopal: Women rulers who shaped the city’s heritage.  Festivals: Diwali, Eid, Navratri, and the unique Lokrang Festival that celebrates tribal art.  Music & Theatre: Bharat Bhavan hosts regular ghazals, plays, and dance performances.

The Experiences That Make a Madhya Pradesh Trip Special

Khajuraho: Look Beyond the Famous Sculptures

Khajuraho is one of the places where a camera can easily become a distraction.

The obvious temptation is to photograph the most elaborate sculptures. But spend some time looking at the architecture as a whole.

Notice how the temple silhouettes rise vertically against the sky.

Nightlife in Bhopal Bhopal’s nightlife is calm, with lakeside cafés, rooftop lounges, and cultural evenings. Bharat Bhavan sometimes hosts late-night shows, and markets stay open till late, especially around festivals.

Look for repetition.

Look for tiny figures tucked into larger sculptural compositions.

And photograph the temple not only as a monument but as part of the surrounding landscape.

The Western Group of Monuments is the obvious starting point. Early morning is particularly beautiful because the light is softer and the stone gradually warms as the sun rises.

A longer lens can compress temple towers against the sky, while a wide-angle lens works better when you want to establish the relationship between the monuments, lawns and surrounding landscape.

Another unique aspect of this temple is that though the temple is dedicated to Goddess Laxmi, there is no idol of the Goddess in the temple. The only idols one can find are those of Lord Ganesh and recently installed ones of Lord Krishna and Rukmini.   Related Blogpost - The breathtaking Chhatris of Orchha, Madhya Pradesh || Gorgeous Cenotaphs that honor generations of Bundela Rulers

Khajuraho's temples are generally associated with erotic sculpture in popular culture, but that narrow interpretation misses much of the complex. The carvings also portray musicians, dancers, warriors, animals, mythical beings and scenes reflecting aspects of medieval life.

The more time you spend looking, the less the temples seem like a collection of famous sculptures and the more they feel like an enormous medieval visual archive.


Last winters we drove to Madhya Pradesh from Delhi and we didn't have any definitive plan. We debated multiple plans but finally booked stay in Orchha for 2 days and from thereon we planned on runtime. Finally this road-trip turned out a great success because we had wonderful experiences and most importantly we explored so many things we had never thought. and that's what I love when I say 'travel'. The motivation was to visit Orchha to see Dussehra there as Orchha is considered the land of Raja Ram, where Ram is worshipped as a king and great arrangements are done by private trusts in collaboration with local administration. This Blogpost will share about the itenerary we followed and it can be a great plan for anyone who loves driving and specially in winters, as this part of the country is usually super-hot in summers.

Orchha: Where the Betwa Does Half the Storytelling

Orchha is one of my favourite kinds of photographic destination — a place where you don't need to constantly chase attractions.

Walk.

Wait.

Watch the light.

The Chaturbhuj Temple, Orchha Fort complex and riverside cenotaphs create endless compositions.

There were a few boats out and about on water. Momentarily the thought of requesting these boatmen to take us to some of the islands crossed our mind, but the fear of crocodiles and also the fact that we didn't think the islands would be worth exploring quickly dispelled this quirky thought.

But the best photographs may come after you stop looking for them.

At sunrise, the chhatris along the Betwa can appear almost monochromatic before the first warm light touches their upper domes.

At sunset, the river provides reflections and the sandstone structures become dramatically warmer.

Try photographing from across the river rather than standing immediately beside the monuments.

While on our trip to Orchha and Khajuraho, Madhya Pradesh, in October 2021, we also had the good fortune to visit Jhansi as well. It was fascinating to learn that while Orchha is in Madhya Pradesh, Jhansi is in Uttar Pradesh, and the two cities are just half an hour apart.

Use the river as foreground.

Include people when appropriate.

A lone person walking near the cenotaphs can provide scale and turn a conventional architectural photograph into a more evocative frame.

Orchha literally rewards patience.


To cut the suspense - no, we did not see a tiger. Though the way our guide was talking about it, we are more of an exception than a rule. Apparently during the morning safari, they had seen a tigress with cubs. But yes we saw a lot and it is definitely worth talking about.

Madhya Pradesh Trip for Wildlife: Kanha, Bandhavgarh and Pench

If heritage is one half of Madhya Pradesh, wildlife is the other.

The state's forests are among the strongest reasons to plan a longer journey.

When you are walking towards the temple, you will see a beautiful pond on the right and in this pond you will see water lilies and lotuses. And among these you will find little egrets, pond herons, and grey herons, in their meditative hunt for food.

Kanha National Park

Kanha is particularly interesting because the safari experience isn't only about tigers.

The landscape itself is beautiful — forests, meadows, sal trees and open areas create constantly changing compositions.

The hard-ground barasingha is one of the park's great conservation stories. Once seriously threatened, the species became the focus of conservation efforts at Kanha and can now be seen in the park.

For photographers, Kanha rewards patience.

Don't spend every minute searching for a tiger.

Photograph the forest.

A chital standing in a shaft of morning light can be a better photograph than a distant tiger hidden behind vegetation.

The official tourism information notes that summer can concentrate wildlife around remaining water sources, while early mornings and late afternoons offer especially attractive light.


When we visited Khajuraho, we had a packed first day when we explored the Western, Eastern, and Southern Groups of temples. And after we were done with that, we had another complete day in the city. So we decided to visit some of the nearby places. We planned for Raneh Falls in the first half and then explore Pandava Caves in the second half. Pandava Caves did not happen because we ended up going for a safari in Panna National Park (Read about that exciting experience here), but Raneh falls did, and it was absolutely wonderful.

Bandhavgarh National Park

Bandhavgarh has a different personality.

The landscape around the fort and hill creates strong visual compositions, particularly in Tala.

The park is associated with legends surrounding the Ramayana, and the name Bandhavgarh is commonly interpreted as "brother's fort."

The ancient fort sitting above the forest gives the landscape a distinctive character.

Don't treat the safari as a tiger lottery.

Listen.

Watch langurs.

Follow alarm calls.

Look for pugmarks and other signs.

A good naturalist can make an apparently unsuccessful safari fascinating because the forest starts becoming a story rather than a checklist.


Authorities now plan to make the gate that you entered to reach the Chausath Yogini temple as the main entrance to the Western Group of Temples Complex. Then may be the Chausath Yogini Temple too would start getting more visitors. For now, however, the temple lies in relative peace and quiet, and as a result, is a pleasure to visit.

Pench: A Forest With Literary Connections

Pench is another excellent option, especially for travellers who want a quieter wildlife experience.

The landscape is strongly associated with Rudyard Kipling's The Jungle Book, although it is better to approach the connection as part of the region's literary history rather than expecting to encounter a real-life version of the fictional jungle.

The forest is also excellent for bird photography.

Carry binoculars.

Keep your camera ready.

And don't make the mistake of photographing only large mammals.

Central India's smaller birds, reptiles, insects and forest textures can create a much richer photographic story.


Some of the the most misunderstood monuments anywhere are the Chhatris. People often confuse them with tombs or samadhis, and assume that they are built on the site where the person to which the chhatri is dedicated was cremated or is buried. However, that is not the case. Indeed Chhatris are associated with a notable person who has passed on. However, they are built to commemorate the person, and do not house the remains of the person in any form. In that sense, the best English word to describe them is cenotaph.  Related Blogpost - Raneh Falls - A preserved area with Magnificent Waterfall around underrated Canyon with colourful rocks and lush green Forest with active wildlife around Ken river in Khajuraho, Madhya PradeshBhimbetka: Photographing India's Deepest Past

Bhimbetka may be the most profound stop on a Madhya Pradesh itinerary.

The site consists of natural rock shelters among sandstone formations in the Vindhyan landscape. UNESCO notes that the paintings span from the Mesolithic period into later historical periods and that nearby village traditions retain cultural similarities with the traditions represented in the rock art.

Standing inside one of the shelters creates an unusual photographic challenge.

You are dealing with extremely low light, uneven rock surfaces and delicate artwork.

This isn't a place for flash photography.

Instead, pay attention to the relationship between the paintings and the natural geometry of the shelter.

A wider composition showing the rock overhang, painting and surrounding landscape can communicate more than a tight crop of a single figure.

And remember that the paintings are fragile cultural heritage.

Do not touch the surfaces.

Do not lean equipment against the rock.

Do not use aggressive lighting simply to get a brighter photograph.

Sometimes the best photograph is the one that respects the place enough to remain quiet.


We reached here at the right time and it was quiet and peaceful, except for the the voice of a policeman with a great sense of humor, who was making announcements on the loudspeaker at the opposite bank. He was asking people to move away from the rocks in the current. While doing so, he was also sharing his views about the selfie culture and how mobiles are the reason behind our society going into ruin, etc, all on loudspeaker, much to the amusement of the people on the ghats.    Related Blogpost - Spots and Stripes at Panna National Park || Guess what we saw at the Tiger Reserve

Sanchi: A Different Kind of Silence

Sanchi sits on a hill overlooking the surrounding landscape, roughly 40 kilometres from Bhopal. UNESCO identifies it as the oldest Buddhist sanctuary in existence and highlights its stupas, monasteries, temples and gateways.

The gateways are extraordinary photographic subjects.

But look closely at the carvings.

One of the most fascinating aspects of early Buddhist art at Sanchi is that Buddha was frequently represented symbolically rather than through a human figure.

The storytelling happens through symbols, animals, trees, footprints and narrative scenes.

For photography, arrive early.

Morning light gives the stonework gentle modelling and makes the relief carvings easier to read.

Avoid photographing every gateway straight-on.

Move laterally.

Use foreground elements.

Look for shadows falling across the reliefs.

The result is more three-dimensional and less like a record photograph.


The timings of the show changes according to the season. From October to February, the timing of the show in Hindi is 6:30PM to 7:25PM and that of the show in English is 7:40PM to 8:35PM. From March till September, the timings are 7:30PM to 8:25PM for Hindi and 8:40PM and 9:35PM for English. We opted for Hindi show because we felt that it would be a more earthy experience. And we were right about this. The show is recorded in the voice of none other than Mr Amitabh Bachchan himself and is quite spellbinding.

Mandu: Architecture, Rain and Romance

Mandu becomes especially atmospheric during and after the monsoon.

The plateau turns green, old stone structures appear against mist and water collects around architectural details.

The Jahaz Mahal is one of the most recognisable structures, but don't stop there.

Explore the wider complex.

Visit the Hoshang Shah's Tomb, Hindola Mahal and the Roopmati Pavilion.

The latter is particularly interesting for photographers because the landscape itself becomes part of the story.

The popular legend connects Rani Roopmati to her desire to see the Narmada River. Whether every detail of the romantic story should be taken literally is less important than understanding how deeply landscape and memory have become intertwined in Mandu.

That's often how travel works in Madhya Pradesh.

History isn't always presented as a clean timeline.

It survives as architecture, folklore, songs and stories repeated by local people.


Hidden Gems to Add to Your Madhya Pradesh Trip

If you have extra time, consider moving beyond the conventional circuit.

Jama Masjid is a beautiful mosque located in the town of Chanderi in Madhya Pradesh, India. The mosque was built during the reign of the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb in the 17th century and is one of the most important historical monuments in Chanderi. The mosque is known for its impressive architecture, intricate carvings, and beautiful domes. It is an important pilgrimage site for Muslims and attracts visitors from all over the world.

Maheshwar

Maheshwar combines the Narmada, temples, ghats and the legacy of Ahilyabai Holkar.

For photographers, sunrise and blue hour are particularly rewarding.

Photograph the ghats from the river.

Then turn around.

The details on the steps, temple silhouettes and everyday activity can be just as interesting.

The Badal Mahal Gate is an important historical monument in Chanderi and is a popular tourist attraction. It is a symbol of the town's rich cultural heritage and is visited by thousands of tourists every year. The gate is also an important pilgrimage site for Muslims, as it houses a mosque inside its premises. In summary, the Badal Mahal Gate is a beautiful and iconic structure that is a must-visit destination for those interested in history, architecture, and culture.

Chanderi

Chanderi is particularly appealing to travellers interested in textiles and traditional crafts.

Don't just buy a sari.

Learn about the weaving process.

Ask questions.

Photograph hands working with thread only after seeking permission.

The resulting images will tell a much richer story than a photograph of a finished product.

Jabalpur is a well connected town in Madhya Pradesh state of India and there are some beautiful places to explore. I visited Jabalpur in 2010 and had posted few posts on the places I visited. Recently one of the blog follower wanted to know more about Jabalapur, places to explore and what's a good way to explore these places.

Bhedaghat

Near Jabalpur, Bhedaghat is known for its dramatic marble rocks along the Narmada.

The scale becomes particularly impressive from the river.

Early morning or late afternoon provides better contrast than harsh midday light.

The Laxmi Temple (or Laxmi Narayan temple) in Orchha, Madhya Pradesh, is an interesting specimen of Bundela Architecture. Unlike the Raja Ram temple and Chaturbhuj temple, the Laxmi temple isn't close to the Orchha Fort. It is about 2km away from the main Fort complex and is built on a small hillock.

Tamia

For a slower landscape-oriented trip, Tamia offers forested hills, cliffs and viewpoints with far fewer conventional tourist associations than Khajuraho or Mandu.


The city was rediscovered accidentally by British India Army Captain T.S. Burt in 1838. However, by then only around 22 temples had survived. Today, Khajuraho is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and makes us proud by just being out there in all its boldness and brightness, and cheer and celebrations. Exactly what we would want to sustain and retain from generation to generation.

Best Photography Spots in Madhya Pradesh

DestinationBest subjectIdeal timePhotography approach
KhajurahoTemple architectureEarly morningWide angle + architectural details
OrchhaChhatris and BetwaSunrise/sunsetReflections and silhouettes
SanchiStupas and gatewaysEarly morningSide light and carved details
BhimbetkaRock shelters and paintingsMorningLow-light, contextual compositions
ManduPalaces and ruinsMorning/eveningLandscape + architecture
MaheshwarNarmada ghatsSunrise/blue hourReflections and human activity
BhedaghatMarble RocksMorning/eveningRiver-level compositions
KanhaWildlifeSafari hoursLong lens, environmental portraits
BandhavgarhTigers + fort landscapeSafari hoursWildlife and habitat
IndoreFood and street lifeMorning/eveningCandid documentary photography

The reason this palace is visible from such a distance is because it is 7-storey high. Even though two of these floors are in the basement, the structure is quite tall. Moreover it also gives a sense of majesty with its high ceilings, wide pillars, and stone structure.

Photography Tips for Madhya Pradesh

A Madhya Pradesh photography trip requires more than carrying a good camera.

Carry two lenses

A practical combination would be:

  • 24–70mm for landscapes, architecture and people

  • 100–400mm or similar for wildlife

A 35mm or 50mm prime is also excellent for street photography.

When we visited the Datia Palace, VJ and I were the only two humans in this gigantic building and we had a gala time find our way from one floor to the other. Only a couple of staircases have been left open from each floor and these staircases aren't grand central structures. Instead they are hidden in chambers and corners and if you lose the sense of direction, you may find it difficult to find your way back.

Use the first and last light

Central Indian sunlight can become harsh quickly.

For architecture, aim for morning and late afternoon.

For wildlife, follow safari timings rather than trying to control the light.

Cuerda Seca is a technique of applying a waxy layer to ceramic tiles to prevent the colors from bleeding into each other especially during firing. The technique originated in Central Asia and allows for more vibrant colors and complex patterns.

Photograph people with respect

A photograph is not an entitlement.

If you're close enough for a recognizable portrait, ask.

In villages and craft workshops, a simple conversation before taking out the camera often leads to a much better photograph anyway.

Despite the fact that some accounts on the Internet talk about the dilapidated state of this palace, we actually did not really find it in that bad a state. True, it looked desolate and lonely, but that kind of added to the charm of the place. It was clean and tidy and a beautiful building to explore.

Don't photograph only monuments

A travel story becomes richer when you photograph:

  • Hands making food

  • A tea stall opening at dawn

  • Weavers working

  • Temple preparations

  • Railway platforms

  • Local markets

  • Farmers returning home

  • Children playing cricket

  • Street-side breakfast

These photographs provide context.


The complex actually has several corners where you can witness its trysts with the nature that tries to reclaim what belonged to it once. Temples of Khajuraho were all at one time hidden in wilderness and that also saved them from being destroyed by the plunderers.    Related Blogpost - Orchha, Madhya Pradesh || The hidden land that adopted Lord Ram as their King in the 16th Century

Food: Eat Your Way Through Madhya Pradesh

Food deserves its own itinerary.

Start in Indore.

Poha with jalebi is the classic breakfast combination, and it works precisely because of the contrast: savoury, lightly spiced poha followed by something sweet and crisp.

Then explore Malwa cuisine.

Bhutte ka kees is made with grated corn cooked with milk, ghee and spices, often using the distinctive jeeravan seasoning. Madhya Pradesh Tourism describes it as a Malwa specialty associated especially with the monsoon.

Then try dal bafla.

It resembles the broader family of wheat-based baked breads found across western and central India, but its combination with dal, ghee and accompaniments gives it a character of its own.

Look also for:

  • Sabudana khichdi

  • Garadu

  • Malpua

  • Mawa bati

  • Papad ki sabzi

  • Local namkeen

  • Seasonal sweets

Street food is best experienced early rather than late.

The morning crowd tells you which stall has survived for a reason.


Chanderi is a town in Madhya Pradesh that is rich in history and culture, and there are many other historical landmarks to visit besides the Koshak Mahal. Here are a few more recommendations:

Conversations That Stay With You

One of the most enjoyable parts of travelling through Madhya Pradesh is that conversations often begin casually.

A tea seller may ask where you're from.

A driver may suggest a place you had never heard about.

A guide may point out a bird you would have completely missed.

A shopkeeper may explain why a particular textile pattern is different from another.

These interactions are valuable because they change the way you see the destination.

Last year I was out in Morena district of Madhya Pradesh and got to explore some very interesting places. Although it was summer season but uniqueness of these places made the visit worth.There are stories associated that architecture of Indian Parliament is inspired from the Chausath Yogini Temple in Mitawali (Mitaoli). This campus is in circular shape, as you can see these photograph. There is an outer region with 64 ('chausath' in hindi) pillars and a temple in the middle. Between the pillars, there are various small temples.There are other Chausath Yogini Temples in other parts of India. I have been to the other one in Jabalpur (Madhya Pradesh)  and that's also similar, but probably smaller in size. Other Yogini temples are situated in Ranipur Jharial & Hirapur in Orissa and Khajuraho.As you can see in these photographs, this place is situated in dry region. One needs to trek to reach the temple, although the path is very well maintained.Chausath Yogini Temple, Mitawali AKA Ekattarso Mahadeva Temple, Mitaoli is dedicated to chausath yogini. This circular structure has 170 feet radius, located on 100 feet mountain.

At Bhimbetka, for example, the connection between archaeological heritage and nearby communities is particularly interesting. UNESCO explicitly notes cultural similarities between the traditions of nearby villages and those represented in the rock art.

This is a reminder that heritage is not always something locked behind museum glass.

Sometimes it continues in ordinary life.


Gwalior Fort is an impressive historic fort located in the city of Gwalior, Madhya Pradesh. The fort is one of the largest and most significant forts in India and is a must-visit destination for anyone interested in history and architecture.

Best Time to Visit Madhya Pradesh

For a broad heritage and road-trip itinerary, October to March is generally the most comfortable period.

Winter brings pleasant daytime temperatures, although mornings can be surprisingly cold, particularly during wildlife safaris.

March to May becomes increasingly hot.

However, heat can work in favour of wildlife photographers because animals may become more concentrated around water sources. Madhya Pradesh Tourism specifically highlights the wildlife opportunities around waterholes during hotter months.

It is rumored that Pravin Rai was in love with the Bundela King Indrajit Singh (who was a prince at that time) and the prince too reciprocated the feelings. Upon her return, the prince ordered the Rai Pravin Mahal to be built for her. The three-storied mahal is also known as Tope Khana because later it served as a lookout for the Orchha fort as well.

The monsoon changes the state completely.

Mandu becomes dramatically greener.

Waterfalls become more impressive.

The countryside becomes lush.

But wildlife park access and safari availability can change seasonally, so check current park rules before planning a monsoon wildlife itinerary.

The Teli Ka Mandir is another notable structure in the fort and is one of the oldest temples in India. The temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu and is a unique blend of North Indian and South Indian architectural styles.

A simple seasonal guide

SeasonBest forWhat to expect
October–NovemberHeritage + landscapesPleasant, fresh post-monsoon landscapes
December–FebruaryHeritage + wildlifeCool mornings, comfortable days
March–MayWildlife photographyHot, dry, strong animal sightings
June–SeptemberMonsoon landscapesGreen landscapes, rain, seasonal closures

Visitors to the Gwalior Fort can also enjoy stunning views of the city from the fort's various vantage points. The fort is situated on a hilltop and offers panoramic views of the surrounding landscape.

How to Reach Madhya Pradesh

For a first trip, Bhopal, Indore and Jabalpur are useful entry points depending on your itinerary.

Bhopal is particularly convenient for combining the city with Sanchi and Bhimbetka.

Khajuraho has its own airport and railway station, making it practical for a heritage-focused itinerary. Madhya Pradesh Tourism notes that the Khajuraho airport is around 2 km from the town centre.

For Bandhavgarh, Umaria is an important railhead, while Jabalpur and Khajuraho can also serve as access points depending on the route.

For Kanha, Jabalpur, Gondia, Nagpur and Raipur can all be considered depending on which gate and lodge you are using.

The most enjoyable option for a multi-destination trip is often a combination of trains and a hired car.

The distances in Madhya Pradesh can be deceptive.

A destination that looks close on a map may take several hours by road.

Build breathing space into your itinerary.


As shared through the Annual Glipmses, 2013 was again a very eventful year for us and we explored some new aspects of Photography. These were not only about travel but lot more than that. With continuous support of our viewers, authors, Photographer friends, mentors and close friends, we got some exciting opportunities in 2013. Many of you came to us with different types of Photography projects and we also executed some of them equal enthusiasm. Thanks you all ! But the most memorable and exciting Photography experience was Aerial Photography Project in Madhya Pradesh. This Photo Journey is sharing some of the photographs which are not part of real project delivery, but few random shots taken on the way to Muraina from DelhiA friend of mine, Smita Dhall, recommended me for this project and Viveck helped to prepare well to plan and execute it. After exchanging few emails and a meeting, it was finalized to the shoot in one day. Plan was to start in a chopper from Greater Noida, land at Marena which is district headquarter of one of the district in Madhya Pradesh. Shoot some of the important monuments and locations and come back on same day. I can't share more about the project but this whole day was a very special experience. Quick flights from one location to another, taking aerial shots, special hospitality by MP officers and met with some of the popular Indian faces. But for me the most special part was photographing the beauty of Murena district from height.If you not aware of Aerial photography, then let me define is again for you :) .. It's about taking photographs of ground from an elevated position and in our case, it was the chopper which used to take us to a point from where we could capture things well. From Murena, few local folks joined us to guide us through right route and locations.Most of the photographs shared in this Photo Journey are shot on the way from Greater Noida to Murena via Agra. These water bodies looked most beautiful from top, although we clicked lot of villages, brick furnaces, huge farmlands etc.Above photograph shows the Noida Expressway, which connects Noida with Greater Noida. This is extended further through Yamuna Expressway which has reduced the travel time to Agra. It seems that Agra is 2.5 kilometers away from Delhi now. It was awesome to see fast moving vehicles on these highways, especially when vehicles were moving in opposite direction of our Helicopter.Check out more about Aerial Photography at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aerial_photography and enjoy rest of the Photo Journey.Here is the old story from this Photography Experience - http://phototravelings.blogspot.com/2013/04/helicopter-ride-from-great-noida-to_3485.html#.Usb65bQtnsE

Where to Stay

Your accommodation strategy should change according to the destination.

As shared through the Annual Glipmses, 2013 was again a very eventful year for us and we explored some new aspects of Photography. These were not only about travel but lot more than that. With continuous support of our viewers, authors, Photographer friends, mentors and close friends, we got some exciting opportunities in 2013. Many of you came to us with different types of Photography projects and we also executed some of them equal enthusiasm. Thanks you all ! But the most memorable and exciting Photography experience was Aerial Photography Project in Madhya Pradesh. This Photo Journey is sharing some of the photographs which are not part of real project delivery, but few random shots taken on the way to Muraina from DelhiA friend of mine, Smita Dhall, recommended me for this project and Viveck helped to prepare well to plan and execute it. After exchanging few emails and a meeting, it was finalized to the shoot in one day. Plan was to start in a chopper from Greater Noida, land at Marena which is district headquarter of one of the district in Madhya Pradesh. Shoot some of the important monuments and locations and come back on same day. I can't share more about the project but this whole day was a very special experience. Quick flights from one location to another, taking aerial shots, special hospitality by MP officers and met with some of the popular Indian faces. But for me the most special part was photographing the beauty of Murena district from height.If you not aware of Aerial photography, then let me define is again for you :) .. It's about taking photographs of ground from an elevated position and in our case, it was the chopper which used to take us to a point from where we could capture things well. From Murena, few local folks joined us to guide us through right route and locations.Most of the photographs shared in this Photo Journey are shot on the way from Greater Noida to Murena via Agra. These water bodies looked most beautiful from top, although we clicked lot of villages, brick furnaces, huge farmlands etc.Above photograph shows the Noida Expressway, which connects Noida with Greater Noida. This is extended further through Yamuna Expressway which has reduced the travel time to Agra. It seems that Agra is 2.5 kilometers away from Delhi now. It was awesome to see fast moving vehicles on these highways, especially when vehicles were moving in opposite direction of our Helicopter.Check out more about Aerial Photography at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aerial_photography and enjoy rest of the Photo Journey.Here is the old story from this Photography Experience - http://phototravelings.blogspot.com/2013/04/helicopter-ride-from-great-noida-to_3485.html#.Usb65bQtnsE

Cities

Bhopal and Indore offer everything from heritage hotels to modern business hotels and budget stays.

As shared through the Annual Glipmses, 2013 was again a very eventful year for us and we explored some new aspects of Photography. These were not only about travel but lot more than that. With continuous support of our viewers, authors, Photographer friends, mentors and close friends, we got some exciting opportunities in 2013. Many of you came to us with different types of Photography projects and we also executed some of them equal enthusiasm. Thanks you all ! But the most memorable and exciting Photography experience was Aerial Photography Project in Madhya Pradesh. This Photo Journey is sharing some of the photographs which are not part of real project delivery, but few random shots taken on the way to Muraina from DelhiA friend of mine, Smita Dhall, recommended me for this project and Viveck helped to prepare well to plan and execute it. After exchanging few emails and a meeting, it was finalized to the shoot in one day. Plan was to start in a chopper from Greater Noida, land at Marena which is district headquarter of one of the district in Madhya Pradesh. Shoot some of the important monuments and locations and come back on same day. I can't share more about the project but this whole day was a very special experience. Quick flights from one location to another, taking aerial shots, special hospitality by MP officers and met with some of the popular Indian faces. But for me the most special part was photographing the beauty of Murena district from height.If you not aware of Aerial photography, then let me define is again for you :) .. It's about taking photographs of ground from an elevated position and in our case, it was the chopper which used to take us to a point from where we could capture things well. From Murena, few local folks joined us to guide us through right route and locations.Most of the photographs shared in this Photo Journey are shot on the way from Greater Noida to Murena via Agra. These water bodies looked most beautiful from top, although we clicked lot of villages, brick furnaces, huge farmlands etc.Above photograph shows the Noida Expressway, which connects Noida with Greater Noida. This is extended further through Yamuna Expressway which has reduced the travel time to Agra. It seems that Agra is 2.5 kilometers away from Delhi now. It was awesome to see fast moving vehicles on these highways, especially when vehicles were moving in opposite direction of our Helicopter.Check out more about Aerial Photography at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aerial_photography and enjoy rest of the Photo Journey.Here is the old story from this Photography Experience - http://phototravelings.blogspot.com/2013/04/helicopter-ride-from-great-noida-to_3485.html#.Usb65bQtnsE

Heritage towns

In Orchha and Maheshwar, choose accommodation based on location rather than simply star rating.

Being able to walk to the river or monuments at sunrise is worth considerably more to a photographer.

As shared through the Annual Glipmses, 2013 was again a very eventful year for us and we explored some new aspects of Photography. These were not only about travel but lot more than that. With continuous support of our viewers, authors, Photographer friends, mentors and close friends, we got some exciting opportunities in 2013. Many of you came to us with different types of Photography projects and we also executed some of them equal enthusiasm. Thanks you all ! But the most memorable and exciting Photography experience was Aerial Photography Project in Madhya Pradesh. This Photo Journey is sharing some of the photographs which are not part of real project delivery, but few random shots taken on the way to Muraina from DelhiA friend of mine, Smita Dhall, recommended me for this project and Viveck helped to prepare well to plan and execute it. After exchanging few emails and a meeting, it was finalized to the shoot in one day. Plan was to start in a chopper from Greater Noida, land at Marena which is district headquarter of one of the district in Madhya Pradesh. Shoot some of the important monuments and locations and come back on same day. I can't share more about the project but this whole day was a very special experience. Quick flights from one location to another, taking aerial shots, special hospitality by MP officers and met with some of the popular Indian faces. But for me the most special part was photographing the beauty of Murena district from height.If you not aware of Aerial photography, then let me define is again for you :) .. It's about taking photographs of ground from an elevated position and in our case, it was the chopper which used to take us to a point from where we could capture things well. From Murena, few local folks joined us to guide us through right route and locations.Most of the photographs shared in this Photo Journey are shot on the way from Greater Noida to Murena via Agra. These water bodies looked most beautiful from top, although we clicked lot of villages, brick furnaces, huge farmlands etc.Above photograph shows the Noida Expressway, which connects Noida with Greater Noida. This is extended further through Yamuna Expressway which has reduced the travel time to Agra. It seems that Agra is 2.5 kilometers away from Delhi now. It was awesome to see fast moving vehicles on these highways, especially when vehicles were moving in opposite direction of our Helicopter.Check out more about Aerial Photography at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aerial_photography and enjoy rest of the Photo Journey.Here is the old story from this Photography Experience - http://phototravelings.blogspot.com/2013/04/helicopter-ride-from-great-noida-to_3485.html#.Usb65bQtnsE

Wildlife destinations

For Kanha and Bandhavgarh, the quality of the naturalist can matter more than luxurious rooms.

A knowledgeable naturalist can transform a safari even when there is no tiger sighting.

Stay close to the gate you plan to use.

This can save considerable travel time before early morning safaris.


As shared through the Annual Glipmses, 2013 was again a very eventful year for us and we explored some new aspects of Photography. These were not only about travel but lot more than that. With continuous support of our viewers, authors, Photographer friends, mentors and close friends, we got some exciting opportunities in 2013. Many of you came to us with different types of Photography projects and we also executed some of them equal enthusiasm. Thanks you all ! But the most memorable and exciting Photography experience was Aerial Photography Project in Madhya Pradesh. This Photo Journey is sharing some of the photographs which are not part of real project delivery, but few random shots taken on the way to Muraina from DelhiA friend of mine, Smita Dhall, recommended me for this project and Viveck helped to prepare well to plan and execute it. After exchanging few emails and a meeting, it was finalized to the shoot in one day. Plan was to start in a chopper from Greater Noida, land at Marena which is district headquarter of one of the district in Madhya Pradesh. Shoot some of the important monuments and locations and come back on same day. I can't share more about the project but this whole day was a very special experience. Quick flights from one location to another, taking aerial shots, special hospitality by MP officers and met with some of the popular Indian faces. But for me the most special part was photographing the beauty of Murena district from height.If you not aware of Aerial photography, then let me define is again for you :) .. It's about taking photographs of ground from an elevated position and in our case, it was the chopper which used to take us to a point from where we could capture things well. From Murena, few local folks joined us to guide us through right route and locations.Most of the photographs shared in this Photo Journey are shot on the way from Greater Noida to Murena via Agra. These water bodies looked most beautiful from top, although we clicked lot of villages, brick furnaces, huge farmlands etc.Above photograph shows the Noida Expressway, which connects Noida with Greater Noida. This is extended further through Yamuna Expressway which has reduced the travel time to Agra. It seems that Agra is 2.5 kilometers away from Delhi now. It was awesome to see fast moving vehicles on these highways, especially when vehicles were moving in opposite direction of our Helicopter.Check out more about Aerial Photography at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aerial_photography and enjoy rest of the Photo Journey.Here is the old story from this Photography Experience - http://phototravelings.blogspot.com/2013/04/helicopter-ride-from-great-noida-to_3485.html#.Usb65bQtnsE

Budget Tips for a Madhya Pradesh Trip

Madhya Pradesh can work for different budgets.

Travel styleApproximate approach
BudgetTrains, local buses, guesthouses, local restaurants
Mid-rangeComfortable hotels + hired cars for selected legs
PremiumHeritage hotels + private transfers + wildlife lodges
Wildlife-focusedSpend more on good guides/naturalists and fewer unnecessary transfers

The biggest budget mistake is trying to cover too much territory.

While Sagar town in Madhya Pradesh may be a hidden gem in terms of its cultural and natural attractions, unfortunately, it's also known for its poor infrastructure and roads. For visitors coming to Sagar, it's important to be aware of the challenges they may face when traveling around the town.

A slower seven-day trip can be more satisfying than a rushed ten-day itinerary covering twice as many places.

For wildlife, spend on the safari experience rather than unnecessary luxury elsewhere.

For heritage, spend on a knowledgeable local guide.

For photography, spend on time.

Time is often the most valuable travel resource.


We hadn't really planned to visit Gadhi Padhavali in Morena, but we happened to be in the vicinity. We had travelled to Mitaoli to visit the Chausath Yogini temple near Morena, Madhya Pradesh, and VJ knew that there were other interesting sites around. Several years ago, he had done a helicopter tour of this area for a Photography assignment.

Suggested 10-Day Madhya Pradesh Itinerary

Day 1 – Bhopal

Explore Bhopal's old city, lakes and local food.

Spend the evening photographing the Upper Lake area.

Day 2 – Bhimbetka and Bhojpur

Take a day trip to Bhimbetka.

If time permits, combine it with Bhojpur.

Return to Bhopal.

Day 3 – Sanchi

Visit Sanchi early.

Spend enough time with the gateways and reliefs rather than rushing through the complex.

Travel onward depending on your next destination.

Day 4 – Orchha

Explore Orchha Fort and the riverside.

Stay overnight.

Photograph the chhatris around sunset.

Day 5 – Orchha to Khajuraho

Travel to Khajuraho.

Explore the Western Group in the late afternoon.

Day 6 – Khajuraho

Return to the temples early.

Explore additional monuments and the surrounding area.

Raneh falls is about 21 kms from the Western Group of Temples and the drive was through fields and villages. We put on old bollywood music in the car and started the journey. The road is narrow and there are some rough patches, but it meanders through fields and villages and the lasting memory is that of a pleasant, calm drive.

Day 7 – Khajuraho to Panna

Travel toward Panna.

Explore the landscape around the Ken River and nearby attractions.

Since we had spent almost the entire trip waking up really early and walking around throughout the day, we decided to take it easy and start a little late. This turned out to be the wrong call and I will tell you why a little later. By the time we had finished breakfast at Lassi Corner and headed out, the sun was high up and it was sunny.

Day 8 – Panna to Bandhavgarh

Transfer toward Bandhavgarh.

Stay near your chosen gate.

Anyhow, we reached the gates of Raneh Falls in about 45 minutes. The entry fees for our car was Rs 300 + Rs. 150 for a mandatory guide. If you do not have a vehicle, you can take an auto. The charges for that is Rs. 200. It is important to take a vehicle because the area to be explored is huge. The guide does not add much value, mostly because the guides are not too knowledgeable. However, that is not optional so you need to take one along. We made peace with this. The guy who accompanied us was a nice guy, so we were not too bothered by him tagging along.

Day 9 – Bandhavgarh

Take an early morning safari.

Rest during the afternoon.

Take an evening safari if available.

Day 10 – Departure

Transfer toward Jabalpur, Khajuraho or another suitable transport hub.

We have learnt to expect disappointment at most waterfalls that are tourist places. A google search evealed that Raneh Falls is not just a waterfall, and is often referred to as "Grand Canyon of India". However, such keywords are so cliché that more often than not, the places turn out to be overhyped. However, this was reverse in case of Raneh Falls.

For a longer trip

Add:

  • Kanha

  • Pench

  • Mandu

  • Maheshwar

  • Indore

  • Gwalior

  • Chanderi

  • Pachmarhi

  • Bhedaghat

Don't try to fit all of them into one journey.


We simply needed a break from our day to day busy life, hence we planned a short trip to Pachmarhi. Pachmarhi is widely known as “the queen of Satpura” and also called “the trekker’s paradise”. Pachmarhi is a hill station in the Hoshangabad district of Madhya Pradesh state of central India. It has been the location of a cantonment (Pachmarhi Cantonment) since British Raj. This beautiful region in the hills was discovered by Captain James Forsyth in 1857. This most popular hill station of Madhya Pradesh is a treasure for travellers because of its ancient caves of the Buddhist era and its serene waterfalls..      More from Madhya Pradesh - Main places to visit & explore around Jabalpur, Madhya Pradesh (India)        If we talk about how to reach Panchmarhi, there are multiple ways. Pachmarhi is 195 kms from the nearest airport in Bhopal. The nearest railway station is Pipariya which is 50kms from Pachmarhi. Bus services to Pachmarhi are available from Bhopal, Nagpur, Jabalpur, Chhindwara, Pipariya and other places. There are 7 buses daily to Bhopal which take just 6-7 hours. Buses are operated by the Madhya Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation as well as other private companies.

Responsible Travel in Madhya Pradesh

Responsible travel here is less about grand gestures and more about everyday behaviour.

Don't touch ancient carvings.

Don't climb monuments for photographs.

Don't use flash around delicate rock paintings.

Don't feed wildlife.

Don't pressure local people into photographs.

Buy crafts directly from artisans when possible.

Use refillable water bottles.

Avoid disposable plastic during forest trips.

And perhaps most importantly, don't treat tribal and rural communities as photographic backdrops.

A good travel photograph should preserve dignity as carefully as it preserves light.


More from Madhya Pradesh -  Chausath Yamini Temple @ MItawali in Morena region of Madhya Pradesh, India        The first place we visited was the Pandava caves, According to a legend, these caves were built by the five Pandava brothers of Mahabharatha era during their thirteen years of exile. But actually the caves are Buddhist in origin. The second destination was the Fairy pool or Apsara Vihar and Silver fall. Both the water falls are close to each other hence it saves your time. You have to walk 3km to see the Silver fall also called Rajat Prapat/Big Fall. The falls comes down from 2800+ feet roaring down the gorge creating a silver streak that gives its name. The view of dense, serene, virgin forest and the stream is simply mesmerizing. The story behind the name of Apsara Vihar or Fairy pool was quite funny as our Guide told us that the British officers used to come to this fall for picnics and when the tribal people saw their ladies swimming they started calling the fall Apsara Vihar because according to the natives, the British Ladies simply looked like Apsaras.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Trying to cover the entire state

Madhya Pradesh is enormous.

Choose a region.

Treating tiger sightings as the only objective

A forest without a tiger is still a forest worth experiencing.

Visiting monuments only at midday

The harsh light can flatten even spectacular architecture.

Ignoring smaller towns

Chanderi, Maheshwar and Orchha can provide more intimate experiences than major cities.

Not planning safari bookings early

Popular wildlife parks can fill up well ahead of travel dates, especially during peak season. Madhya Pradesh Tourism's itinerary information recommends advance planning for wildlife experiences.

Assuming road distances are short

Allow generous travel time.

Photographing everything

Put the camera down occasionally.

Some memories are better when they remain unphotographed.


The first part of Raneh Falls area that the guide takes you through is the forest area. You first head out to the farthest point, which is known as the Ken Gharial Sanctuary. It is really just a point in the Forest from where you can look down into Ken Gorge and at times spot Gharial's sunning themselves on the rocks below. We weren't that lucky and apparently it was not the right season.

Frequently Asked Questions About a Madhya Pradesh Trip

How many days are enough for a Madhya Pradesh Trip?

7–10 days is a good starting point for a focused itinerary covering Bhopal, Sanchi, Bhimbetka, Orchha and Khajuraho. A wildlife-focused journey should ideally allow additional days.

What is the best time for a Madhya Pradesh Trip?

October to March is generally the most comfortable period for combining heritage, cities and outdoor sightseeing. March to May can be particularly rewarding for wildlife photography, although temperatures become very high.

Is Madhya Pradesh good for photographers?

Absolutely. It offers architecture, wildlife, landscapes, street photography, textiles, food photography, river scenes and prehistoric art within one state.

What are the best places to visit in Madhya Pradesh for first-time travelers?

Khajuraho, Orchha, Bhopal, Sanchi, Bhimbetka, Mandu, Kanha and Bandhavgarh are among the strongest choices, depending on how much time you have.

Is Madhya Pradesh safe for tourists?

The major tourist destinations are well established for visitors. As anywhere in India, use normal precautions, take care around wildlife, and follow local advice when travelling through remote areas.

Is Madhya Pradesh expensive?

It doesn't have to be. Trains, local restaurants and mid-range accommodation can keep costs reasonable. Wildlife safaris and private road transfers are usually the bigger expenses.

Which wildlife park is better: Kanha or Bandhavgarh?

Neither is universally "better." Bandhavgarh is particularly famous for tiger sightings and its dramatic fort landscape, while Kanha offers a larger and exceptionally scenic forest experience with strong birding and barasingha opportunities.

What food should I try in Madhya Pradesh?

Start with poha-jalebi in Indore, then try bhutte ka kees, dal bafla, garadu, local namkeen and Malwa sweets.

Can I visit Khajuraho and Orchha on the same trip?

Yes. They work particularly well as part of a longer Central and northern Madhya Pradesh itinerary.

Is Bhimbetka worth visiting?

Yes, especially if you are interested in archaeology, anthropology, photography or early human history. The combination of rock shelters, paintings and forested landscape makes it very different from conventional monuments. UNESCO recognizes Bhimbetka for its exceptional evidence of long-term interaction between people and landscape.


Related post from Madhya Pradesh - The Legendary Marble Rocks of Bhedaghat @ Jabalpur, Madhya Pradesh, INDIA        Then we headed towards the Bee fall, it is named as such because from a distance the waterfall sounds like a bee. To enjoy the sight of the waterfall and to have fun in the water you need to walk 4km downhill. Well no wonder why Pachmarhi is called the trekker’s Paradise. We all enjoyed activities such as zipping, parasailing, and few water sports here.      Next we went to Dhupgarh, which is the highest point of Satpura ranges at 1352 m. It is known for sunrise and sunset view point. At night one can see the lights of the neighbouring towns such as Itarsi. During the day the lush green valley below offers a captivating view. One can reach the top either by road or by trekking. As we had very little time because it was a short trip we went by road but I’ll highly suggest that one should choose trekking. I seriously have no words to describe the amazing view from the highest peak of Dhupgarh. No picture can do justice to what you see there, you can only experience it on your own. We had dinner at Zayka hotel, the best non-vegetarian restaurant at Pachmarhi and went back to our resort.

Final Thoughts: Give Madhya Pradesh Time to Reveal Itself

The biggest mistake you can make on a Madhya Pradesh Trip is to approach it as a checklist.

Khajuraho is not just a temple complex.

Orchha is not just a fort.

Sanchi is not simply a stupa.

Bhimbetka is not merely a collection of cave paintings.  Kanha isn't just a place to see a tiger.  Mandu isn't just a ruined city.  And Indore isn't simply a convenient place to spend the night.

Bhimbetka is not merely a collection of cave paintings.

Kanha isn't just a place to see a tiger.

Mandu isn't just a ruined city.

And Indore isn't simply a convenient place to spend the night.

Each destination becomes more interesting when you look beyond the headline attraction.  Stand beside the Betwa at Orchha and wait for the light.  Sit quietly in a forest and listen before reaching for the camera.  Watch a cook prepare breakfast at an Indore stall.  Look closely at a Khajuraho carving.

Each destination becomes more interesting when you look beyond the headline attraction.

Stand beside the Betwa at Orchha and wait for the light.

Sit quietly in a forest and listen before reaching for the camera.

Watch a cook prepare breakfast at an Indore stall.

Look closely at a Khajuraho carving.

Walk slowly through Sanchi.

Stand beneath the sandstone shelters at Bhimbetka and think about the people who once sat there, painted there and looked at the same landscape.

That is what makes a trip to Madhya Pradesh so compelling.  It isn't one journey.  It is several layers of India occupying the same landscape — prehistoric, ancient, medieval and contemporary.

That is what makes a trip to Madhya Pradesh so compelling.

It isn't one journey.

It is several layers of India occupying the same landscape — prehistoric, ancient, medieval and contemporary.

Now that we have addressed the elephant in the room, let's talk a bit about Khajuraho itself as well as its history. As you would also gain from the sound and light show, the city, when it was discovered had a dense population of date trees or Khajoors. And that led to it being called Khajuraho. The first actual reference in historical text was in the written accounts of the Iranian Scholar  Abu Rayhan Muhammad ibn Ahmad al-BiruniAbu Rihan, as he described the region while accompanying Mahmud of Ghazni in his campaign against Kalinjar. The next mention is by Ibn Batuta, who visited this place in 1335 AD, during rule of Mohammad Bin Tuglaq.

And for a photographer, perhaps the greatest reward is that the state keeps changing long after you think you've understood it.

The first photograph may be of a monument.

The best one may be of a person standing quietly beside it.

And sometimes, the photograph you remember most is simply a landscape at dawn, before the rest of the world has arrived.

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To cut the suspense - no, we did not see a tiger. Though the way our guide was talking about it, we are more of an exception than a rule. Apparently during the morning safari, they had seen a tigress with cubs. But yes we saw a lot and it is definitely worth talking about.




We hadn't really planned to visit Gadhi Padhavali in Morena, but we happened to be in the vicinity. We had travelled to Mitaoli to visit the Chausath Yogini temple near Morena, Madhya Pradesh, and VJ knew that there were other interesting sites around. Several years ago, he had done a helicopter tour of this area for a Photography assignment.


Last year I was out in Morena district of Madhya Pradesh and got to explore some very interesting places. Although it was summer season but uniqueness of these places made the visit worth.There are stories associated that architecture of Indian Parliament is inspired from the Chausath Yogini Temple in Mitawali (Mitaoli). This campus is in circular shape, as you can see these photograph. There is an outer region with 64 ('chausath' in hindi) pillars and a temple in the middle. Between the pillars, there are various small temples.There are other Chausath Yogini Temples in other parts of India. I have been to the other one in Jabalpur (Madhya Pradesh)  and that's also similar, but probably smaller in size. Other Yogini temples are situated in Ranipur Jharial & Hirapur in Orissa and Khajuraho.As you can see in these photographs, this place is situated in dry region. One needs to trek to reach the temple, although the path is very well maintained.Chausath Yogini Temple, Mitawali AKA Ekattarso Mahadeva Temple, Mitaoli is dedicated to chausath yogini. This circular structure has 170 feet radius, located on 100 feet mountain.


We simply needed a break from our day to day busy life, hence we planned a short trip to Pachmarhi. Pachmarhi is widely known as “the queen of Satpura” and also called “the trekker’s paradise”. Pachmarhi is a hill station in the Hoshangabad district of Madhya Pradesh state of central India. It has been the location of a cantonment (Pachmarhi Cantonment) since British Raj. This beautiful region in the hills was discovered by Captain James Forsyth in 1857. This most popular hill station of Madhya Pradesh is a treasure for travellers because of its ancient caves of the Buddhist era and its serene waterfalls..      More from Madhya Pradesh - Main places to visit & explore around Jabalpur, Madhya Pradesh (India)        If we talk about how to reach Panchmarhi, there are multiple ways. Pachmarhi is 195 kms from the nearest airport in Bhopal. The nearest railway station is Pipariya which is 50kms from Pachmarhi. Bus services to Pachmarhi are available from Bhopal, Nagpur, Jabalpur, Chhindwara, Pipariya and other places. There are 7 buses daily to Bhopal which take just 6-7 hours. Buses are operated by the Madhya Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation as well as other private companies.


Bhopal, the capital of Madhya Pradesh, is often called the City of Lakes thanks to its scenic upper and lower lakes that define the cityscape. But Bhopal is much more than water and landscapes — it is a city where Islamic architecture, tribal traditions, Mughal heritage, modern art, and natural escapes coexist.


Datia in Madhya Pradesh was another location that we covered on our very productive drive back from Khajuraho to Noida. Upon reaching Datia, the state of the roads and the feel of the colony was such that we almost turned back. However a very enticing view of the Datia Palace, which is visible from quite a distance, kept us going.


Gwalior Fort is an impressive historic fort located in the city of Gwalior, Madhya Pradesh. The fort is one of the largest and most significant forts in India and is a must-visit destination for anyone interested in history and architecture.


The Badal Mahal Gate is an important historical monument in Chanderi and is a popular tourist attraction. It is a symbol of the town's rich cultural heritage and is visited by thousands of tourists every year. The gate is also an important pilgrimage site for Muslims, as it houses a mosque inside its premises. In summary, the Badal Mahal Gate is a beautiful and iconic structure that is a must-visit destination for those interested in history, architecture, and culture.










While it is the Western Group of Temples that the city of Khajuraho is most famous for, there is a small but stunning temple that stands proud very close to the Western Group of Temples. While walking towards the Western Group of Temples from the Airport road (crossing Gold Tulip), there is a gate that looks like it does not lead anywhere. It is this gate that you would need to enter to visit the Chausath Yogini Temple.



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