Walking through Bhaktapur Durbar Square is like stepping back in time — a place where every brick, temple, and courtyard tells a story. But just a few steps away from the royal palaces and grand monuments lies a corner of the city that feels even more alive: Potters' Square. Here, the age-old art of pottery is not just preserved — it’s breathing, evolving, and thriving.
If you want to experience Bhaktapur beyond its famous temples, wandering through Potters’ Square, pottery shops, and local art studios will offer you a glimpse into the creative soul of this ancient city.
Potters’ Square: Where Clay Comes to Life
As you leave the grandeur of Bhaktapur Durbar Square and wander southward, you’ll soon reach the open-air workshop known as Potters’ Square (Kumal Tole).
Here, the scent of damp earth fills the air, and the ground is a living canvas dotted with hundreds of freshly-molded pots, sun-drying in neat circles and lines. Local potters, known as "kumals," sit at their traditional wooden wheels, spinning life into shapeless lumps of clay using techniques passed down for generations.
Highlights of Potters’ Square:
Live Demonstrations: Watch artisans expertly throw, shape, and decorate pots with incredible speed and skill.
Sun-Drying Process: See how pottery is naturally dried in the open sun before being fired.
Wood-Fired Kilns: Witness traditional brick kilns where finished pieces are hardened in blazing fires.
Seasonal Rhythms: Potters' activities change with the seasons; in the dry months, the square overflows with pottery, while in the rainy season, work moves under shelter.
The pace here is slow and meditative — you can spend hours just soaking in the rhythm of wheel, hand, and earth.
Exploring Pottery Shops: Taking a Piece of Bhaktapur Home
Around Potters’ Square and the surrounding alleys, you’ll find dozens of small pottery shops showcasing the end results of the artisans’ labor.
Items you’ll find include:
Traditional Water Pots (Ghyampo): Used in homes and rituals.
Oil Lamps (Diyo): Essential during Tihar (festival of lights).
Incense Holders: Intricately designed for temple use.
Decorative Items: Small animal figures, masks, and artistic vases.
Each piece tells a story of ancient techniques, natural materials, and timeless design.
And the best part? Many shops allow you to bargain kindly — and even try your hand at making a small clay item yourself!
Buying pottery here not only supports local artisans but also preserves a living tradition that’s struggling to survive in the face of modernization.
Discovering Art Studios Around Bhaktapur Durbar Square
Beyond pottery, Bhaktapur is a city of artists — painters, woodcarvers, mask makers, and traditional paubha (scroll painting) artists have made this city their home for centuries.
Just around Bhaktapur Durbar Square, you’ll find small art studios and galleries tucked into old Newar houses:
Paubha Art Studios: Witness the painstaking creation of sacred Buddhist and Hindu paintings, rich in color and symbolism.
Mask Makers: Explore shops filled with vibrant wooden masks used in dances and festivals like Gai Jatra and Indra Jatra.
Wood Carving Workshops: Admire or even purchase finely carved window frames, doors, and religious statues.
Many of these studios are family-run, and if you ask kindly, artists are often happy to talk about their craft, give demonstrations, and share the meaning behind their creations.
Tips for Your Walk
Start Early: Morning light bathes the pottery in a magical glow, and the potters are most active early in the day.
Be Respectful: Remember, Potters' Square is both a workspace and a neighborhood — walk carefully around drying pots and greet artisans with a friendly “Namaste.”
Photography: It's a photographer’s dream, but always ask permission before taking close-up portraits.
Try a Workshop: Some shops offer short pottery-making classes — a great hands-on experience!
Buy Direct: Whenever possible, buy directly from artisans rather than middlemen to support their craft more fairly.
While the towering temples of Bhaktapur capture the eye, it is in places like Potters' Square and the surrounding art studios where you truly connect with the heart of the city. Here, earth meets hand, tradition meets creativity, and past meets present.
Walking among rows of sunbaked pots, hearing the hum of spinning wheels, chatting with artists in tiny studios — these are the moments that stay with you long after your trip ends.
If you seek the soul of Bhaktapur, you will find it in the clay, the brushstrokes, and the steady hands of its people.
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