Mandore Kachori || A feast of Dahi Kachori and Kadhi Kachori right outside Mandore Fort Complex

On our way from Jaisalmer to Jodhpur, we made a couple of detours, and one of those detours was for Mandore Fort. While the Mandore Fort Complex was really interesting and we will share details about that trip in another blogpost, in this post, I want to talk about the unusual lunch we had after exploring the fort.

On our way from Jaisalmer to Jodhpur, we made a couple of detours, and one of those detours was for Mandore Fort. While the Mandore Fort Complex was really interesting and we will share details about that trip in another blogpost, in this post, I want to talk about the unusual lunch we had after exploring the fort. 

By this time, we were starving and were looking for a place to have lunch. It was then that Vijay spotted this humble yet clean looking place across the road. What made it even more enticing was that fresh kachoris were being fried at the counter there. And we could also see the utensil where tea was simmering. So we headed there. The person at the cash counter escorted us inside where we shared the table with another couple who were already devouring kachoris. The owner explained that they offer two types of Kachori preparations and urged us to try both. So we ordered Dal Kachori with Kadhi and Pyaaz Kachori with Dahi. And we also ordered garama garam chai to accompany the kachoris. We shared both the preparations and while both were tasty, we absolutely loved the pyaaz kachori preparation with Dahi. And also even though the preparations are made with a single kachori, it is quite filling. We were appropriately full after this meal and went ahead towards Jodhpur.

By this time, we were starving and were looking for a place to have lunch. It was then that Vijay spotted this humble yet clean looking place across the road. What made it even more enticing was that fresh kachoris were being fried at the counter there. And we could also see the utensil where tea was simmering. So we headed there. 

The person at the cash counter escorted us inside where we shared the table with another couple who were already devouring kachoris. The owner explained that they offer two types of Kachori preparations and urged us to try both. So we ordered Dal Kachori with Kadhi and Pyaaz Kachori with Dahi. And we also ordered garama garam chai to accompany the kachoris. 

We shared both the preparations and while both were tasty, we absolutely loved the pyaaz kachori preparation with Dahi. And also even though the preparations are made with a single kachori, it is quite filling. We were appropriately full after this meal and went ahead towards Jodhpur. 

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Gadisar lake was initially built by the founding king of Jaisalmer, Rawal Jaisal in the 12th century. At that point in time, it was known as Jaisalsar. It was later rebuilt by Maharawal Gadsi Singh in the 14th century and then came to be known as Gadisar or Gadsisar or Gadaria Lake.

Grand Gadisar Lake in Jaisalmer, Rajasthan || A man-made lake that is like an oasis in the desert


When you search for places to visit enroute from Bikaner to Jaisalmer, the Internet would throw you many options - one of which is Akal (pronounced "aakal") Wood Fossil Park. While most of them will exalt the place, we would like to highlight that it may not be the right place for everyone.

Discovering ancient history in Akal Wood Fossil Park, Jaisalmer, Rajasthan || A most unusual place full of surprises that are not all related to the bygone eras


After Khichan Bird Sanctuary, we had decided to stop at Pokaran Fort. It was about 68 kilometers from the bird sanctuary and we would reach it within an hour. Most of us in our generation only found out about Pokaran after India conducted their second successful nuclear test in this region.

>> The Amazing Pokaran Fort near Jaisalmer, Rajasthan || A beautiful structure that effortlessly blends with the desert landscape it is built in


On our way from Bikaner to Jaisalmer, Khichan Bird Sanctuary was our second scheduled stop after Bap Village. And we were really excited about it. Both of us love watching and Photographing birds and we never miss a chance to visit a bird sanctuary. So this would be the ideal spot for us to take a break and stretch our legs.

>> A short but rewarding visit to the Khichan Bird Sanctuary || How the local population of a place has made this town a safe haven for the Demoiselle cranes


Demoiselle Cranes (grus virgo) are a species of crane that breed in central Eurosiberia, ranging from Black Sea and Mangolia to North Eastern China, plus a small breeding population in Turkey. The birds fly south to Africa and Indian subcontinent to spend the winter months.

>> Demoiselle cranes of Khichan, Jodhpur District, Rajasthan || Beautiful Birds that fly to and fro Mangolia and have found a mention in Indian mythological texts 


The locals in Bikaner refer to themselves as being "saral, sukh, and sust". One of my good friends from Bikaner shared that people in Bikaner take pride in acknowledging that they are content. So I guess it is true. The state of the traffic on the roads does reflect the pace of life.

>> Driving around the drivable parts of Bikaner, Rajasthan || Wide, clean roads with easy, laidback traffic

However, we did spot some migratory birds flying around and were sure that there is probably a water body around. We decided to explore that. After asking around a little we reached a lake of humungous proportions and there was a temple on the shore. There was a man offering prayers in the temple and while we were roaming around, he caught up to us and started asking us some questions.

>> The surprising Bap Village, Jodhpur District, Rajasthan || A place to stop and stretch your legs walk around a large waterbody

Even though we had been warned against booking a hotel in old Bikaner, because the roads are congested, we managed to find the perfect hotel - Hotel Jaswant Bhawan - which is perfectly located at the edge of old Bikaner with approach via wide roads and a spacious parking. And it was just walking distance from most of the places in old Bikaner.

>> Exploring Old Bikaner on Foot || A soulful city in Rajasthan that is comfortable in its own skin

Rampuria havelis are a group of 15th century opulent havelis that stand out in the labyrinthine roads of old Bikaner. While these havelis are symbols of wealth and luxurious lifestyles of rich merchants of Bikaner, they are surrounded by the comparatively modest homes of the middle class business people.


We had been walking around the city of old Bikaner for hours and we hadn't had anything to eat. The lengendary kachoris of Bikaner had evaded us thus far and had started appearing like myths or mirages to us. And we did not want to have momos, dosas, or punjabi thali when in Bikaner. It was right when we were about to get desperate when we took a turn and noticed a strange scene on our left.

The Junagarh Fort, despite the name, isn't located in Junagadh, Gujarat. It is a fort in Bikaner. The word Juna or जूना means "Old". The rulers who got the fort built did not name it Junagarh obviously. It was only when the Royal Family moved to the new Lallgarh Palace in the early 20th century, was this fort renamed Junagarh. The original name of the fort was Chintamani. I know, unusual name for a fort.

As it often happens with us, we found ourselves looking for a place to stay in Bikaner a couple of nights before our trip to the city. It wasn't tourist season per se, so Booking.com listed many properties that were within our budget.

While travelling from Laxmangarh to Bikaner on Agra-Bikaner Highway, you will notice some chhatris on your left. When you do so, stop your car, get down for a bit, and stretch your legs. For this is a heritage site that you may want to capture in your camera.

If you are in Udaipur and have to chose only one place to visit & explore, City Palace has to be that place. Certainly there can be personal choices as for someone visiting a particular restaurant for a meal or take a walk around ghat of Lake Pichola is more important than the City Palace. In this blogpost we will share about why City Palace was a special place for us and what all you see inside this beautiful palace. First photograph of this post is clicked by our guide who helped us explore Udaipur City Palace.

If you are on a tour of the havelis in Jaisalmer, you should visit the Patwon ki Haveli last. Because after seeing this haveli, your very definition of the word "haveli" will change. And after that, no other haveli will ever come up to your expectations. So in order to be fair to all the other havelis, visit Patwon ki haveli only after you have visited all of the others.


After roaming around the Gadisar lake and then dumping our luggage at the hotel, we headed off to explore the old Jaisalmer and its famous havelis. The first haveli we came across was Salim Singh ki Haveli. It was about 500 metres from the fort wall, where we had parked our car and was located inside the congested streets of old Jaisalmer. Salim Singh ki haveli was been built on the remains of an older haveli that was built in the late 17th century. The new building was commissioned by Salim Singh Mahto, the then Prime Minister of the kingdom when Jaisalmer was the capital, in the year 1815 and was occupied by the Mehto family of Jaisalmer. They were the most influential family of their time.


Kuldhara is right up there next to Bhangarh in the list of the most haunted places in India. And when we discussed our plans to go there in the afternoon, our hotel person immediately warned us not to do so. "It is a haunted village. Don't go there close to the evening. Visit in the morning and be back by lunch."


Bada Bagh is another place in Jaisalmer, apart from Vyas Chhatri, where you can find beautiful cenotaphs. These Chhatris were built to commemorate the various kings who have ruled Jaisalmer over the centuries. The number of Chhatris here are much larger than the Vyas chhatris though and the size and beauty of the chhatris vary based on the position of person for whom it was constructed.


Vyas Chhatris are a group of cenotaphs built on a piece of raised ground in Jaisalmer. These cenotaphs are dedicated to the sage Vyas, who wrote Mahabharat, and are built on what actually is a cremation ground for Brahmins. The surroundings are very basti-like and the existence of these beautiful Chhatris here is very surprising in these surroundings.


After visiting the abandoned village of Kuldhara, another stop on the way to Sam Sand Dunes was the Khaba Fort. It is located about 21 kilometers from Kuldhara and it took us close to 1.5 years to reach. This wasn't because of the condition of the road. It was because of all the many stops we made on the way.

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