Hanuman Dhoka: The Living Heart of Kathmandu's Royal Heritage

Tucked within the ancient alleys of Kathmandu Durbar Square lies Hanuman Dhoka, a sprawling palace complex that is as much a spiritual center as it is a monument to Nepal’s regal past. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is a must-visit for anyone seeking to understand the intricate weave of history, art, religion, and politics that defines Nepal’s capital city.

What is Hanuman Dhoka?

"Dhoka" means door or gate in Nepali, and "Hanuman Dhoka" translates to “Hanuman’s Gate.” The name refers to the statue of Lord Hanuman, the monkey god from the Hindu epic Ramayana, which stands at the entrance of the palace. Believed to have been placed there in 1672 by King Pratap Malla, the red-cloaked statue has stood as the palace's guardian deity for centuries.

Hanuman Dhoka was the royal palace of the Malla kings and later the Shah dynasty until the late 19th century. Even after the capital moved to the newer Narayanhiti Palace, Hanuman Dhoka remained a ceremonial site of immense importance.

Historical Background

The history of Hanuman Dhoka stretches back over 700 years, with the earliest parts of the palace complex dating to the Licchavi period (4th to 8th century). However, much of the structure as it exists today was developed during the Malla period (12th–18th centuries). The Malla kings were great patrons of art and architecture, and their influence is visible in the exquisitely carved wooden windows, gilded roofs, and multi-tiered pagodas.

Later, during the rule of King Prithvi Narayan Shah—the founder of modern Nepal—the palace was expanded further. Although political power eventually shifted away from Hanuman Dhoka, it continued to serve as a place for coronations and other royal ceremonies until as recently as 2001.

Architectural Features

Hanuman Dhoka is not just a single building but a complex of interconnected courtyards and temples, each reflecting different historical periods and artistic influences.

Key Highlights Include:

Nasal Chowk: The central courtyard, originally built in the Malla period, was used for coronations and royal functions. The name "Nasal" is derived from the nasal form of Lord Shiva worshipped in the courtyard.

Mul Chowk: One of the most sacred parts of the palace, this courtyard is surrounded by shrines dedicated to Taleju Bhawani, the tutelary goddess of the Malla kings.

Mohan Chowk: Once used exclusively by members of the royal family, this part of the palace is closed to the public but holds significant historical importance.

Basantapur Tower (Nine-Storey Tower): Once the tallest building in Kathmandu, it provided a panoramic view of the city and was a symbol of royal pride.

Tribhuvan Museum: Located within the complex, it houses royal artifacts, weapons, thrones, and personal items of the Shah kings.

Cultural and Religious Significance

Hanuman Dhoka is more than just a royal palace—it’s a sacred site deeply embedded in the Hindu and Newar Buddhist traditions. Many of the shrines and statues are actively worshipped, and the complex is part of important processions and festivals such as Indra Jatra and Dashain.

During Indra Jatra, the living goddess Kumari makes a procession that includes a stop at Hanuman Dhoka. This unique fusion of royalty and divinity is a hallmark of Nepal’s spiritual identity.

Earthquake Damage and Restoration

The 2015 Gorkha earthquake caused significant damage to parts of Hanuman Dhoka, particularly the taller towers and some intricate woodwork. Restoration efforts, spearheaded by the Department of Archaeology and international partners like UNESCO and the Chinese government, are ongoing. These efforts aim not just to rebuild but to preserve the original architectural techniques, including traditional wood carving and brick masonry.

Visiting Today

As of 2025, Hanuman Dhoka is partially open to the public, with some sections still under restoration. Tourists can explore:

Museums showcasing Nepal’s royal and cultural history

Active temples and shrines

Traditional Newari architecture and artifacts

Entry Fee: There’s an entry fee for foreign nationals (typically around NPR 1000–1500). Local residents and SAARC nationals often get a discount.

Best Time to Visit: October to March offers the best weather. Visiting during festivals like Indra Jatra or Tihar adds a magical dimension.

Hanuman Dhoka is not just a relic of a bygone era—it’s a living museum, where rituals are still performed, gods are still worshipped, and history still echoes in every courtyard. Whether you're an architecture buff, history lover, or spiritual seeker, a visit to Hanuman Dhoka is a journey into the very soul of Kathmandu.