Sikkim - The Land of Flowers, Pets, and Glamour



Barely a couple of hours ago, we had lost a fantastic mobile phone, and yet sitting in a local bus of Sikkim, it didn't take me long to fall in love with this northeastern state of India. The reason was simple - for the very first time in my life I had seen a well-mannered Lhasa Apso (any dog, for that matter) board a bus and sit quietly next to the driver for more than two hours. The dog wasn't the driver's pet - it was accompanying a woman traveling from Rangpo to Gangtok. It was quite intriguing to see the dog and the humans around so comfortable in each other's presence.

Barely a couple of hours ago, we had lost a fantastic mobile phone, and yet sitting in a local bus of Sikkim, it didn't take me long to fall in love with this northeastern state of India. The reason was simple - for the very first time in my life I had seen a well-mannered Lhasa Apso (any dog, for that matter) board a bus and sit quietly next to the driver for more than two hours. The dog wasn't the driver's pet - it was accompanying a woman traveling from Rangpo to Gangtok. It was quite intriguing to see the dog and the humans around so comfortable in each other's presence. 



Barely a couple of hours ago, we had lost a fantastic mobile phone, and yet sitting in a local bus of Sikkim, it didn't take me long to fall in love with this northeastern state of India. The reason was simple - for the very first time in my life I had seen a well-mannered Lhasa Apso (any dog, for that matter) board a bus and sit quietly next to the driver for more than two hours. The dog wasn't the driver's pet - it was accompanying a woman traveling from Rangpo to Gangtok. It was quite intriguing to see the dog and the humans around so comfortable in each other's presence.

This is just one aspect of Sikkim that is apparent as soon as you step foot here. It is a comfortable state - home to accommodating people, well-mannered pets, pleasing aesthetics, and general goodnaturedness. One of the first things that struck us as we entered Sikkim was how well-dressed and well-groomed everyone was. From hairstyles to clothes to shoes, there was no dearth of well-groomed people. And this wasn't specific to any age group. It was evident that people here are particular to the extent that even when they are doing a job where they are bound to get dirty (such as breaking rocks at roadsides), they dress well. 

Barely a couple of hours ago, we had lost a fantastic mobile phone, and yet sitting in a local bus of Sikkim, it didn't take me long to fall in love with this northeastern state of India. The reason was simple - for the very first time in my life I had seen a well-mannered Lhasa Apso (any dog, for that matter) board a bus and sit quietly next to the driver for more than two hours. The dog wasn't the driver's pet - it was accompanying a woman traveling from Rangpo to Gangtok. It was quite intriguing to see the dog and the humans around so comfortable in each other's presence.

To get some idea of their fashion sense, click here. Coming back to the discussion about pets, especially dogs (aww!), we were surprised to see how well-behaved all pet dogs we ran into were. Throughout our stay, we didn't hear any of them utter so much as a whimper, let alone a bark. The bus dog included. The homestay we stayed in, The Mazong Hotel, had a pet Lhasa Apso. The dog had a set schedule in the morning. At around 7am, it would be let out. It would roam around and and do its business. After about 45 minutes it would go and sit in front of the main entrance and wait for rest of the household to wake up. It would wait patiently for someone to open the door and let it in. It wouldn't scratch the door or whimper or bark. I found it quite amusing and surprising. It was a friendly dog and would come up and say hello whenever it would see us out on the porch, and never once did we feel intimidated. 

Barely a couple of hours ago, we had lost a fantastic mobile phone, and yet sitting in a local bus of Sikkim, it didn't take me long to fall in love with this northeastern state of India. The reason was simple - for the very first time in my life I had seen a well-mannered Lhasa Apso (any dog, for that matter) board a bus and sit quietly next to the driver for more than two hours. The dog wasn't the driver's pet - it was accompanying a woman traveling from Rangpo to Gangtok. It was quite intriguing to see the dog and the humans around so comfortable in each other's presence.

 Needless to say, we were impressed. Not only do Sikkimese people appreciate the finer things in life, they also know how to deal with them. Another example in the same vein is flowers. Almost all houses in Sikkim, be it independent houses or floors on the highway have flowers going around them. You will find colorful winter and spring flowers in balconies, on porches, in the gardens. This was true, not only in Gangtok, but also in small towns and tiny villages. Most of the above are things that we barely stop to think about. However, looking at the general attitude and happiness levels of the people in Sikkim, I think that if we do stop and smell a rose, pet or play with a dog, and indulge ourselves at times, we can steal at least a few moments of bliss out of our otherwise stressful lives. It does indeed suddenly seem that our happiness is indeed in our own hands. At least at times. :)

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Best of Sikkim through Ankit Sood's Travelling-Camera


We wanted to explore an area we have never explored earlier. Northeast India had been on our minds for some time so we zeroed in on Sikkim after some thought. We purchased the flight tickets (they were expensive as we booked them barely two days before the travel) and booked a reasonable homestay in Gangtok for a couple of nights. We began our vacation with no idea of what we would do after Gangtok. Details of the itinerary and how it developed will follow in another post, this series is about exploring various aspect of the State. In this edition, we will explore Sikkim's wonderful water bodies, some that you go seeking, others that surprise you on an unexpected turn.


After my recent visit to Sikkim, I realized how this state of India has nailed the business the Tourism in India. I looked at various pieces of details separately and tried to create my own hypothesis which is not validated by locals of Sikkim. Before I start sharing about our backpacking trip to Sikkim, I want to highlight the fact that the state is very clean and whole credit goes to people of Sikkim.


Nestled high above the bustling town of Leh, the Namgyal Tsemo Monastery stands as a silent guardian, offering a serene retreat for those seeking spiritual solace and breathtaking views. Founded in the early 15th century by King Tashi Namgyal, this ancient monastery is a significant symbol of the region's rich Buddhist heritage and architectural splendor. Let's delve into the history, architecture, and the spiritual essence of Namgyal Tsemo Monastery.



After spending whole day around the town, MG road welcomes you with cheerful environment and plenty of food options. We loved this place called Yummy Tummy restaurant on MG road. They serve amazing sizzlers and some of the local beer brands. We loved Danceberg which is only available in Sikkim.    We stayed in a homestay at Gangtok, although didn't get a chance to try local cuisine there. We tried various Sikkimese food-options in west-sikkim. So watch out this space for more on Sikkim, main places to explore, food options and how to commute.  Do share your inputs, suggestions or questions through comments below. We promise to act fast.


Men, in general, appeared less enthusiastic about traditional costume. We hardly saw anyone in a traditional Shambo cap, despite the fact that Lepchas and Bhutias form a sizeable population. We did, however, see several Buddhist monks who looked as sunny and bright as ever dressed in their bright robes.


If there is one place in India that appears to be straight out of fairytales, it is Yuksom in Sikkim. And when I think of that place, I remember peace, serenity, greenery, birds, flowers, fish, and all things pretty and beautiful. And that is why it is the ideal candidate for the Time-Turner Series. The Time-Turner series is my opportunity to pen down the lingering memories and impressions of a place I have visited. It helps me relive the experience a bit and also reflect upon the aspects of the place that stood out the most to me.  We had planned a couple of days’ stay in Pelling but only half a day in Yuksom. If there was any regret during our Sikkim tour, it was that we didn't spend enough time at Yuksom. We should have at least stayed a night. Waking up in this wonderful town would have been some experience. Because it looked like a place where pastel-colored musicals are filmed. A place where nothing bad can ever happen. One memory that stands out in particular is that of two ducks walking side-by-side along the road against a backdrop of lush green on the sidewalk. I think I may have built the scene up a little in my memory, but then it was such a scene. And then we chanced upon the most ethereal lake possible. Lake Kathog (also known as Karthok) revealed itself to us suddenly as we crossed a grassy trail after purchasing a trivially priced ticket. It was silent except the rush of winds through the trees and on the grasses. There were a few birds putting up their most melodious performance. Countless goldfish swam around peacefully. Can anything be more pristine? The next memory that stands out is that of the long trek to Dubdi Monastery. While the Monastery lies at the top of a hill, with a steep, paved walk leading up to it through the forest, the destination is completely worth the arduous journey.  I remember lush lawns, classic dampness of a place high up in the mountains, amid clouds. I also remember colourful flowers. There was also another couple enjoying the same sight.  We also remember a visit to the Coronation Throne. The Coronation Throne is placed in a compound made of stone. There is a temple and a large prayer wheel too in the compound. The place is quiet and serene and has a few benches here and there where you can sit and just be. It was heaven if there is one. We reached the Yuksom Bazaar and occupied a table at the Traditional Inn restaurant. We ordered food and watched a swallow dart in and out of the neighboring restaurant. Neither the swallow nor the restaurant owner were perturbed by each other's presence.  If I talk about my most favorite places in the world, Yuksom is definitely somewhere on the top of the list. To my mind it is a slice of Scottish Highlands right here in India. It is also one of the places right out of the Enid Blyton fairytales. It is a place I would love to go back to and just walk around day after day after day.


There are several magnificient waterfalls in Sikkim and the Seven Sister waterfall is one of them. Located around 32 kilometers from Gangtok, this waterfall is easily accessible from the Gangtok-Lachung highway. When we drove past these waterfalls, it was still summer and the water was comparatively less, but it is said that during the rains, these waterfalls are a sight to see.   From a distance from certain points each of the seven different waterfalls is visible, falling almost parallel to each other, down the rugged face of the mountain. Some of the falls turn to almost a trickle in the summer, while others hide behind the rocks, but overall, the falls are worth a stop and some photos even at the driest times.   During monsoon, you can spend more time here. Anyways, we feel Sikkim is a place you should go with loads of time on your hands, because there's a risk that you will fall in love with a small town or a city and would want to spend more time there. We tried to be flexible during our trip and it works.   When we were on our trip, we met several people simply because we were riding the public transport most of the time. Among the people we met was a Russian national who had taken up a job in Infosys in Hyderabad and had been staying here for several years simply because he wanted to see India and what could be better if you could do it while getting paid well. Sikkim is the ideal place for such a guy, because he takes long vacations from his company and usually visits a place with the intention of exploring it. He had arrived in Gangtok and rented a very cheap hotel so that he could stay longer. And he would plan each day as it came.   It is these kinds of people who would get the most from visiting a place like Sikkim. But a majority of tourists in Sikkim are families. We found several of them at Seven Sister Waterfalls as well. They usually come here on a tight schedule and leave after the quintessential selfies with their feet dipped in the pool. Nothing wrong with that of course. It is anyways very difficult to really experience anything when it is too crowded. To each his/her own.   Tourists do not visit the Seven Sisters Waterfalls in isolation. They usually stop here on their way to somewhere else. It is usually a circuit. Along with the Seven Sisters Waterfalls, people visit hilltop temples known as Hanuman Tok and Ganesh Tok, the Himalayan Zoological park where you can see the red panda. People also stop on their way to look at Banjhakri waterfall and the Bakthang Waterfalls. Tourists also flow in and out of the Namgyal Institute of Tibetology. It is usually a full-day circuit. We also did something of the sort on a taxi we shared with the Russian.   The best time to visit the falls is during the monsoons when the falls are mighty and unstoppable. If you have time on your hands, you can sit around and soak in the sights, may be take a much needed break from a hectic touristy schedule.


Let me start from the very beginning. After spending two days at Gangtok, we decided that it was time to head west. We zeroed in on Pelling as our next destination and went about identifying the best way to get there. One can take individual cabs or shared cabs. Individual cabs in Sikkim are expensive and typically charge Rs. 100 for 4-5 kms. The Bus service does exist but the timings were very restrictive, and we wanted to experience shared cabs once. Moreover, we had already traveled in a local bus while commuting from Bagdogra to Gangtok.







Another important detail of this trip was our Russian co-traveller. He works in an IT Services Company in Hyderabad and every now and then vacations in various parts of India. He doesn't decide the itinerary in advance and stays in basic hotels and explores the region properly. His approach towards photography is also unique. He only carries a smartphone, but we hardly saw him take pictures. I think that he likes to experience the places and hasn't yet got carried away with the current trend of (over)sharing on social media. Respect! In the picture above, that's him in the orange sweater.

Ganesh Tok was the last point we visited in Gangtok, and it was worth it. We would have preferred a little less crowd, but over the years we have learned to be thankful for small mercies. There were other things to explore, such as a souvenir shop, several small eateries near the parking, and a pine forest close by, but we chose to go back to the Mall after this. We were yet to plan the next day, which would either take us to Pelling in the West or Yumthang in the North. If you have been following the blog, you would know the destination we chose. For the rest of you, you will need to go back and read about it.

So certainly this place didn't feel a right fit for my & Vibha's itinerary. It's also an overcrowded place which are certainly not my preferred places anyway.

When you finally get to the Lake, you can experience ecstasy or mild disappointment, depending upon how many high-altitude lakes you have visited. The Lake itself isn't too serene or beautiful, unlike the Kartok Lake, but there is a jetty with prayer wheels on both the sides that leads to the water, which can provide a good photo-opportunity.

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